Chanel’s viral Hangzhou show divides netizens
The French luxury house today presented its 2024-25 Métiers d’Art collection at Hangzhou’s scenic West Lake.
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Published December 03, 2024
What happened #
Hot on the heels of the restaging of its Cruise 2024-2025 show in Hong Kong last month, Chanel has returned to China.
Today, the French luxury heavyweight debuted its 2024-25 Métiers d'Art at Hangzhou’s West Lake, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its serene landscapes that have inspired poets and painters for centuries.
A short film released last week initially teased Chanel’s latest stint in China. Shot by German filmmaker and author Wim Wenders, the promo featured an international cast that includes Tilda Swinton, Xin Zhilei, and Leah Dou.
As for the show, the collection unfolded against the backdrop of the freshwater lake, with models emerging from the mist and walking along jetties to the rhythmic pulse of tanggu, or traditional drums.
A color palette of whites, eggshell blues, foil gold, bubblegum pinks, and black set the tone for the production, which saw the house reimagine its signature tweed fabrics in glittery skirt-and-jacket two pieces, as well as intricately embroidered pantsuits.
There were maxi dresses adorned with layered gold and pearl jewelry, while multiple nods to traditional Chinese fashion punctuated the collection, including pleated skirts, slouchy silk pajama sets, goldwork embroidery, and hanfu-inspired jackets.
The Jing Take #
Hosted annually, Chanel’s Métiers d’Art fashion shows – the name translates to “art professions” – serve as a tribute to the brand’s savoir-faire. They also aim to pay homage to the small specialist workshops that Chanel began buying in 1984.
Hosted in a different city each year, this iteration marks the first time the house has debuted one of its collections in China, as opposed to restaging a show initially presented in the West.
It’s a watershed moment for the mainland, signaling Chanel’s confidence in the market despite the recent slowdown in luxury spending. The move also stands in contrast to competitors like OTB Group, which has scaled back its retail presence with recent store closures, highlighting Chanel’s commitment as others retreat.
It’s also the first time the brand has hosted one of its Métiers d'Art collections in the absence of its former creative director Virginie Viard, who bowed out in June.
In terms of audience reactions, local netizens were glad to see the label decamp to their homeland, with the hashtag #ChanelHangzhouGlobalDebut topping Weibo’s Hot Search list and racking up 18.84 million views.
But, as has become a recurring theme with Chanel’s runway presentations, the collection itself sparked mixed reviews.
“I feel Chanel’s take on incorporating Chinese elements this time is the most beautiful among all luxury brands,” commented Xiaohongshu user @yigexiaotouming (@一个小透明).
Other onlookers argued that the show lacked creativity.
“Honestly, there wasn’t much innovation. Except for the venue, the entire show fell far short of Karl Lagerfeld’s Shanghai Métiers d’Art show 15 years ago (just my personal opinion),” wrote @Victoriayu (@Victoria羽).
“Wasn’t the inspiration supposed to come from Chinese lacquer screens? Where are the Chinese elements? Don’t tell me it’s just embroidery motifs — that’s such a basic design technique,” penned user @Zhuzi (@竹子).
Alongside the looks, homegrown celebrities boosted online engagement. Chinese model Liu Wen, for instance, went viral after attending the show with her alleged boyfriend Jing Boran. So far, the Weibo hashtag “Liu Wenjing Boran double interview” (#刘雯井柏然双人采访#) has racked up 33,200 views.
This year has seen a multitude of luxury players opt for Chinese landmarks to host their collections, including Balenciaga’s nightfall showcase atop Shanghai’s Museum of Art Pudong for Spring/Summer 2025, Ami Paris’ repeat of its Fall 2024 collection in Suzhou, and Louis Vuitton’s pre-Fall 2024 collection hosted at the Long Museum West Bund in Shanghai.
The Jing Take reports on a piece of the leading news and presents our editorial team’s analysis of the key implications for the luxury industry. In the recurring column, we analyze everything from product drops and mergers to heated debate sprouting on Chinese social media.