Are co-ed shows making a comeback?

What happened Are co-ed shows – aka events that feature both men’s and women’s collections together, instead of separately – making a comeback? A growing number of fashion’s bigwigs seem to think so. On November 26, French luxury house Lanvin confirmed its return to the Paris Fashion Week calendar after a two-year hiatus, announcing that its next collection under newly appointed creative director Peter Copping will debut in a co-ed format. Lanvin isn’t the only luxury player embracing unified showcases. In September, Valentino – now under the creative vision of Alessandro Michele – announced it was scaling back on runway shows in favour of combined coed outings. Gucci also revealed on November 19 that it is merging its men’s and women’s collections once more, returning to a co-ed format at Milan Fashion Week in February next year. The brand first adopted co-ed shows in 2017 under Alessandro Michele, but shifted back to separate shows under Sabato De Sarno earlier this year. Gucci’s 2026 Resort collection in Florence , scheduled for May next year, will also be a mixed-gender presentation. As brands rethink their show strategies, unified runway shows appear to be reclaiming their place on the global fashion stage. The Jing Take This shift toward combined men’s and women’s shows is far from unexpected given the luxury market’s slowdown. While most major houses maintain separate calendars for their men’s and women’s collections, consolidating could reflect financial pragmatism. Gucci, for instance, recently reported a 25% YoY drop in Q3 sales and is focused on streamlining expenses. Meanwhile, Lanvin Group posted lackluster performance in August, with wholesale revenue down 23%, direct-to-consumer sales dropping 10%, and boutique and outlet revenue slipping by 3%. Merging collections into unified showcases offers a practical route to curbing costs. Yet, the growing excitement around Men’s Fashion Week – bolstered by increased online visibility, A-list attendees, and cultural cachet – raises a critical question: could opting out of the standalone menswear circuit risk damaging a brand’s relevance? It’s possible, but with survival at stake, brands are doubling down on cost-efficiency. Today’s runway spectacles – with star-studded front rows and attention-grabbing gimmicks designed to drive online engagement – demand significant investment, which can take up a considerable slice of a brand’s budget. For Lanvin, the return to a co-ed format also marks a step toward revitalization as the house undergoes a reboot under Copping’s leadership. Beyond reduced operational costs, co-ed shows offer brands an opportunity to embrace sustainability by reducing travel, energy consumption, and the costs associated with elaborate set designs. The approach also aligns with evolving consumer attitudes as gender fluidity in fashion gains mainstream acceptance, making a unified presentation of men’s and women’s collections increasingly relevant. Will others follow suit? If Lanvin and Gucci nail their storytelling, co-ed shows could well return as the new norm in fashion. The Jing Take reports on a piece of the leading news and presents our editorial team’s analysis of the key implications for the luxury industry. In the recurring column, we analyze everything from product drops and mergers to heated debate sprouting on Chinese social media.

Are co-ed shows making a comeback?

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Published November 28, 2024

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Are co-ed shows making a comeback?