Can Piccioli reinvent Balenciaga? China weighs in

What happened Kering officially named Pierpaolo Piccioli as the new creative director of Balenciaga today, with his tenure beginning on July 10 and his debut collection scheduled for Paris Fashion Week in October. The appointment follows Demna’s impending departure from the brand after nearly a decade of radical transformation, culminating in his farewell couture show this July. Piccioli’s appointment comes amid a major reshuffle within Kering’s fashion portfolio. In March, Demna was tapped to take the reins at Gucci, while Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s former creative head, succeeded Piccioli at Valentino last year. Piccioli, renowned for his poetic, humanistic approach to haute couture, spent over 25 years at Valentino and is credited with modernizing the maison while amplifying its romantic DNA. His work, especially the 2022 PP Pink collection, resonated across social media and cemented his status as a couture purist in a commercial age. Kering’s decision signals a shift in direction for Balenciaga — away from the ironic streetwear-infused aesthetic that defined Demna’s era, and back toward the architectural elegance and refined construction championed by founder Cristóbal Balenciaga. Supporting Piccioli in this new chapter is Natalie Raynaud, recently promoted to vice president after four years as the brand’s chief product officer. Her appointment points to a desire for commercial continuity during a period of creative evolution. The Jing Take Pierpaolo Piccioli’s arrival at Balenciaga marks a dramatic tonal shift — one that speaks to both nostalgia and necessity. Under Demna, Balenciaga became fashion’s enfant terrible, regularly dominating headlines and trending across Chinese social media for its provocative, often polarizing designs. From 12,000 RMB ($1,662) “destroyed” sneakers and duct tape bracelets to luxury hairpins priced like jewelry, the house embraced satire and shock value with viral precision. These moments weren’t just gimmicks, they were cultural lightning rods that helped Balenciaga capture a new generation of fashion consumers attuned to irony, individuality, and identity politics. China’s social media reacts: Mixed emotions on Weibo Piccioli, by contrast, brings quiet dignity and emotional depth. His couture creations at Valentino celebrated inclusivity, beauty, and craftsmanship, offering a romantic antidote to fashion’s increasing commodification. But can he speak to the same clientele of digital natives that Demna cultivated over the past decade? That’s the question reverberating across Chinese social platform Weibo. “They clearly want Balenciaga to return to classic elegance — and the designer we love is exactly that,” wrote fashion blogger @FashionBaker. “I hope he can innovate boldly while honoring the brand’s legacy,” posted @Xinbababalubiya (@新巴巴巴路比呀). Meanwhile, some netizens questioned the timing. “Why not Galliano?” asked @HappySavageR (@开心嘢人R). Fashion critic @Regardez joked: “Former Valentino creative director heads to Balenciaga, ex-Balenciaga director takes over Gucci, and Gucci’s former chief moves to Valentino — fashion’s creative carousel has come full circle.” Yet, amid the fanfare and skepticism, many recognize the gravity of Piccioli’s challenge: preserving the irreverent spirit that fueled Balenciaga’s ascent while injecting it with emotional resonance and design purity. “His style is elegant and soft, very different from Balenciaga’s structural, voluminous approach under Demna,” wrote XavierJiesijun (@Xavier杰斯君). “The challenge is how he will bridge the existing brand identity and his own design ethos, without alienating a consumer base built over the past decade.” This balancing act may hinge on the strategic pairing of Piccioli’s couture instincts with Raynaud’s commercial sensibilities. While Piccioli can re-anchor the brand in haute couture’s cultural gravitas, Raynaud’s market fluency will be key to translating vision into sell-through, especially in critical markets like China, where Gen Z shoppers demand both emotional connection and cultural relevance. Fashion’s pendulum: From streetwear to craftsmanship In many ways, Piccioli’s mission is not to replace Demna’s Balenciaga, but to evolve it. As streetwear loses its chokehold on the luxury space, the pendulum is swinging back toward craftsmanship, subtlety, and timeless design. If Piccioli can imbue Balenciaga’s avant-garde legacy with his signature romanticism, while retaining the edge that made the brand a meme machine, he may successfully redefine the house’s next decade. The Jing Take reports on a piece of the leading news and presents our editorial team’s analysis of the key implications for the luxury industry. In the recurring column, we analyze everything from product drops and mergers to heated debate sprouting on Chinese social media.

Can Piccioli reinvent Balenciaga? China weighs in

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Published May 20, 2025

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Can Piccioli reinvent Balenciaga? China weighs in