Lipstick with peptides? Inside China's makeup-care revolution

For the latest on skincare, cosmetics, fragrances, wellness, emerging Chinese and APAC beauty brands, subscribe to our weekly Jing Beauty Newsletter. In China’s fast-evolving beauty market, foundation is no longer just a veil of colour — it’s a vehicle for skin health. Lipstick that hydrates, concealer that soothes, and cushions that offer SPF alongside anti-aging peptides — for Gen Z and savvy premium shoppers alike, cosmetics must now do double duty. According to Mintel’s 2024 Beauty and Skincare Trend Report, 91% of Chinese consumers check for active ingredients in base makeup, and 76% believe in the efficacy of skincare-infused formulas. This rising demand is propelling a hybrid category dubbed “makeup-care,” a segment that blends aesthetics and functionality in one swipe. “In China, base makeup products like foundations, cushion compacts, and BB/CC creams are leading the way in skincare-infused innovation. These products often include hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and brightening ingredients such as niacinamide. Local consumers don’t just want to look flawless — they want makeup that treats and improves their skin,” says Anaïs Bournonville, CEO of AB Advisory, a Paris-based consultancy focused on China’s beauty market. Beauty shoppers’ ‘skin-first beauty’ philosophy The benefits shoppers are chasing have evolved beyond basic hydration. Today’s discerning users expect makeup to deliver serum-level results. “The specific skincare benefits include anti-UV and sun protection, anti-aging and skin rejuvenation, moisturizing and the quest of the perfect ‘glass skin.’ We also notice side trends depending on the consumers groups and their own skin issues such as oil control or acne,” Bournonville say Lisa Zhang, project leader at Daxue consulting, echoes this trend: “Suncare is still non-negotiable, especially in base makeup. But now we see increasing demand for brightening effects and firming technology typically found in skincare.” For young consumers this is also about streamlining their routines. Gen Z doesn’t want 10 steps in the morning. “One 25-year-old told us, ‘the perfect beauty routine is when less is more.’ They want makeup that works as skincare, so they can simplify without sacrificing results,” says Bournonville. The numbers underscore the boom. According to NielsenIQ, online sales of facial makeup with ceramides rose 40% in 2024. Eye products with peptides grew 293%, while squalane-infused lip color skyrocketed 513%. Euromonitor predicts that base makeup will account for over 54% of China’s total color cosmetics market by 2027, reaching 42.2 billion RMB ($5.9 billion). That makes complexion the key battleground for differentiation — and innovation. Beyond foundation: Lipsticks, eyeshadows go functional While complexion products are leading the way, the hybridization of cosmetics has moved into other categories. Lipsticks have become standout multitaskers, often doubling as blush or eyeshadow and featuring hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and peptides. “This is the most viral format on Xiaohongshu (also known as RedNote), as part of different makeup inspirations and skincare-infused glow makeup routines,” Bournonville says. Beauty bloggers use lipstick in three ways, to deliver color and moisture while fitting into minimalist routines. Zhang highlights the evolution of lip care: “Perfect Diary’s second-gen Biolip Essence Lipstick — powered by biomimetic technology — racked up over 13 million views on RedNote. It combines rich pigment with advanced anti-aging benefits and intense hydration.” This signals how even color cosmetics must now offer treatment-grade functionality. Similarly, eyeshadows are being reimagined with restorative ingredients such as ceramides and squalane. JudyDoll’s water-infused multi-balm, for example, uses a 53% skincare essence ratio to nourish while delivering pigment across eyes, cheeks, and lips. Who is demanding ‘makeup-care?’ “Makeup-care” is not just a Gen Z phenomenon. Zhang identifies two other key segments: users with sensitive skin and buyers of premium skincare products. For those with sensitive skin, it’s not just a preference. It's a necessity. “These users look for soothing and non-irritating formulations that won’t trigger flare-ups but still deliver visible effects,” says Zhang. Meanwhile, affluent consumers who already invest in high-end skincare expect their cosmetics to align with their regimen. “They view makeup as an extension of skincare,” says Zhang. “They expect high-performance formulations, such as firming, lifting, and glow-enhancing benefits, often from trusted luxury skincare brands like Estée Lauder, Clé de Peau, and Helena Rubinstein.” Bournonville says that younger Gen Z users prefer multi-use cushions that offer comfort and convenience, while more mature or premium consumers gravitate toward serum-foundations that combine coverage with anti-aging care. Global, local players adapt cosmetics formulas to China’s makeup-care trend As the demand for skin-beneficial formulas intensifies, both established international names and rising Chinese competitors are shifting their strategies. French label Typology, for instance, has positioned its tinted serums and lip oils with the same clinical transparency as its skincare line. “They treat their skincare range with detailed results and ingredients,” says Bournonville. For years, K-beauty has been riding the makeup-care trend. Hince’s hydrating stick, Torriden’s acid hyaluronic lip balm, and Jung Saem Mol’s SPF50+ foundation cushion with anti-aging and whitening properties are on shoppers’ Xiaohongshu (RedNote) must buy list. Elsewhere in US, skincare-focused cosmetics Merit is growing mainstream, suggesting that makeup-care will soon rise to a global phenomenon. Domestic brands are equally agile. Florasis, for instance, incorporates Traditional Chinese Medicin-inspired ingredients into multi-use pigments and cushion foundations, capitalizing on national pride and skin-calming properties. First Cover, a startup founded in 2024, made waves with its “compression wear” foundation — a product that promises visible tightening and was backed by a reported 100 million RMB ($13.6 million) angel investment from venture capital heavyweight Matrix Partners China. Meanwhile, PassionalLover and Judydoll are leveraging partnerships with biotech labs to create customized formulations for sensitive skin. Funny Elves (方里), another C-beauty player, teamed up with Botanee Biotech Research Institute to develop a multi-functional foundation infused with plant-based actives like snow tea and purslane for both coverage and calming. A new language of marketing: From colour to care As functional cosmetics take center stage, storytelling in the beauty sector is transforming. Traditional campaigns focused on finish, shade range, and persona. Today, brands must articulate efficacy, ingredient integrity, and scientific credibility. “The language of cosmetics has shifted,” Bournonville says. “Now it’s about sensoriality, lab testing, and proven results. This new beauty clientele has totally reinvented the way make-up is approached, no longer as an ornament, but as a genuine treatment that cares for and treats, while at the same time beautifying.” Zhang concurs: “Consumers are more skincare-literate. They understand ingredients and formulations, driving demand for multi-functional products that simplify routines without compromising results.” For instance, Lancôme’s marketing of its Teint Idole Ultra Wear Care & Glow Foundation emphasizes 24-hour hydration via hyaluronic acid and glycerin, supported by clinical trials. It’s skincare in a bottle — with pigment. Still, challenges remain. Experts caution against overestimating the actual skincare efficacy of these hybrids. Many makeup products contain skincare ingredients at far lower concentrations than dedicated treatments — often 10 to 20 times less. Consumers should view them as supportive rather than substitutive. Skincare makeup is the new normal In a market where ingredient knowledge is deepening and routines are streamlining, skincare-infused makeup is not a trend — it’s the new default. As innovation blurs the line between coverage and care, Chinese consumers are leading a global redefinition of beauty standards. Whether it’s a peptide-packed lipstick, a cushion with niacinamide, or a glow foundation laced with antioxidants, one thing is clear: beauty in China must now benefit as well as beautify skin.

One product, multiple benefits: ‘Makeup-care’ rises

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One product, multiple benefits: ‘Makeup-care’ rises