Couture Fashion Week came to a close in near freezing temperatures in Paris. But the weather didn’t temper the excitement for fashion’s most expensive, opulent and artful creations on show in the French capital.
Revived red carpet favorite Schiaparelli made waves again with its surrealist collection when Kylie Jenner’s lion head dress went viral. A stellar lineup of supermodels and celebrities, such as Doja Cat covered in red rhinestones, propelled the show to the top of social media feeds this season. In just a few years, Schiaparelli has cemented its place as one of the most exciting couture labels on the planet.
Christian Dior Couture took inspiration from old world songstress Josephine Baker, Armani Privé was inspired by harlequins and clowns, and Valentino delighted crowds with a bold and brave take on ‘80s club culture. Meanwhile, Kim Jones’ goddess drapes for Fendi was a masterclass in sensuality. Perhaps because these international mega labels dominate ready-to-wear, their couture pieces are also more wearable and immediately client-friendly. For surrealist exaggeration, look towards the couture-only, or at least couture-focused, brands.
Viktor and Rolf’s continuing strength in cleverly subverting high fashion led to some serious runway moments. This year, Mugler also dramatically returned to the runway after a three-year break, clothing supermodels like Irina Skyak, Shalom Harlow and Amber Valetta in that special brand of sensual, sculpted futurism.
A notable rising star on the scene was London-based designer Robert Wun, who has dressed modern divas like Lady Gaga, Cardi B and Doja Cat. This designer’s brand of fashion futurism presented its first runway show at couture week, made possible by the 2022 Andam Grand Prix prize win that included €100,000 and a year’s mentorship from Chanel’s President Bruno Pavlovsky,
Wun’s inaugural couture show collection tread the line between beauty and fear, elegance and states of disintegration. It was a strong enough statement to stand out against some of the biggest names in the couture game.
The London College of Fashion graduate was born in Hong Kong and discovered by Joyce Boutique in 2012, before launching his label in 2014. Sculptural, fantastical and appropriately off-kilter at times, Wun has won plenty of fans with a statement collection that elevates his label to the next level. After dressing plenty of celebrities and working on costumes for the Royal Ballet, The Hunger Games and Hong Kong director Wong Kar Wai, Wun is definitely one to watch.