For countless designers from mainland China, London represents a beacon of invigorating fashion, pulsing with creative spirit and setting a welcome stage to showcase sustainable design and innovative technology such as artificial intelligence (AI) and 3D printing.
In collaboration with London-based consultancy Fashion Scout, Fashion Scout China serves as a platform for up-and-coming Chinese talent. Joseph Toronka, stylist and Fashion Scout collaborator, says “With China being one of the biggest markets for luxury brands and fashion, this marriage between Fashion Scout and emerging Chinese designers is necessary to give them a global audience that they need and deserve to highlight the talent that comes out of China.”
This season, Fashion Scout China returned to London Fashion Week to spotlight five emerging Chinese talents: Ladecente, Afmn, E7wstudio, Chiyue, and Gorgiya.
LADECENTE#
Founded in 2021, Ladecente balances sustainability and artistic innovation. Led by designer Rae Lei, the brand draws inspiration from ancient Chinese traditions, infusing its designs with the precision of advanced technology. Ladecente previously showed at China Fashion Week’s Spring 2023 season. With sustainable design being increasingly embedded in London’s fashion industry, Lei says that the city was the ideal place for Ladecente to present its collection.
Titled “Intelligence Coir,” Ladecente’s Fall 2024 collection pulls elements from pre-Qin era Chinese rain-gear, modernized with laser-cut silk fabrics and Italian mohair knitted overlay mesh. The collection utilizes marine recycled metal nylon.
AFMN#
AFMN – the FMN is short for “forget me not” – was founded in 2021 by Chinese designer Ophelia Song. It produces contemporary womenswear with special attention to wearability. The brand has been worn by celebrities including Kelly Yu and Jessica Jung.
For its Fall 2024 collection, delicate fabrics such as tulle and lace are rounded out by sturdier textiles like glossy leather and suede. The designs were made more playful with elements such as rosettes, blown-up bows, and heart-shaped patch pockets. This sense of sweet exuberance combined with elegance is the core of AFMN’s design philosophy.
“It’s exciting to show in London,” says Song. “It’s our first time [showing here] so we’re excited to see what happens.”
E7W STUDIIO#
E7w Studiio was founded in 2021 by Yiki Wung, who holds an MA in menswear from Westminster University. The collection was Wung’s first return to London Fashion Week since her graduation show. Bringing together the technical silhouettes of outdoor wear with Chinese inspired prints, the brand is a fluent exercise in combining Eastern and Western cultures. E7w Studiio is carried by Spaders Lab, a ski and snowboarding retailer that operates in 10 locations in China.
Named “Apsaras,” the label’s Fall 2024 collection applies the textural remnants of the murals found in the Mogao Grottoes of Dunhuang, China, to functional garments, such as hard-shell and puffer jackets. Originally catering to snowboarders, E7w Studiio now designs for a variety of outdoor activities.
Chiyue#
Hailing from Shanghai, designer Chiyue graduated from the London College of Fashion with an MA in womenswear. Through her design signatures, animated prints and intricate pattern cutting, Chiyue sets forth an eclectic approach to classic womenswear.
Her Fall 24 collection featured deconstructed, flowing dresses and skirts, elevated with prints dictated by bold, inky lines. The monochromatic palette of black and white was offset with a vibrant shade of tangerine. The designs had a luxurious undercurrent thanks to the use of double-printed silk, leather, and voluminous faux fur.
GORGIYA#
Independent label Gorgiya was founded by designer Guo Yuan Yuan, with a focus on elegant ready-to-wear and formalwear. Corset mini dresses were followed by sequined blazers, set off with princessy details, such as pearls and lace. For the finale look, the designer took to the runway herself in a ruched mermaid gown and an accompanying gold headpiece.
Upon earning her MA in Engineering Business Management at Warwick University, Guo changed her career to fashion design. Gorgiya has previously shown at Shenzhen Original Fashion Week, winning the Most Commercial Value Award in 2020.
“I think this is a very big step for my career,” says Guo about showing in London.