China’s plus-size fashion wake-up call

“I’m a fat Asian, and did you know in China’s Tang Dynasty, fat was the beauty standard?” says Vicky Li, a Chinese-American content creator known as @midsizeasianqueen, in a short-form video that has amassed over 411,000 views on Instagram and 440,000 on TikTok. The 30-year-old began creating content in 2023 and has since built a thriving community of 60,000 Instagram followers who feel represented when she shares moments from her life as a self-defined “mid-size Asian” woman who loves fashion, food, and fitness. Li says her “last Chinese photo studio memory” – she appears in the viral video in a stunning traditional outfit and full makeup provided by a photo studio – in Beijing was when none of the clothing fit her. Despite her figure (157.5cm and 79kg, as she notes in her videos) being a common sight on the streets of Beijing, finding clothes that fit and match her style remains a challenge. “In China, body size pressure is also reflected in clothing sizes,” Li tells Jing Daily. “As a midsized girl, I fit into a 3XL or 5XL because the clothing sizes run small. Imagine how tiny a size S is in China! We’re ingrained with the belief that we don’t want to be an XL.” She adds that shopping for clothes on Taobao can be a frustrating experience. Even after finding the right size, she has to carefully analyze the measurements and compare them to her body, often guessing which one might fit. Producing the right fit In China, the plus-size fashion market is growing rapidly — comprising approximately 20% of the global market last year. This expansion is driven by shifting fashion preferences among China’s burgeoning middle-class population and the increased accessibility provided by e-commerce platforms. Domestic brands like Neiwai, Maia Active, and influencer Yang Tianzhen’s brand, Plusmall are rising to the occasion, meeting the demand for stylish plus-size apparel with labels. Jonathan Travers-Smith, CEO and founder of consultancy Hot Pot China, believes plus-size fashion in the country has just started. “The future for plus-size is very bright,” he says. However, he emphasizes that local brands must strike the right balance between production and promotion while consumers look to role models like Olympic gold medalist Li Wenwen and Hong Kong entrepreneur Vriko Kwok. Globally, producing plus-size clothing presents challenges, from the higher costs of raw materials to more intricate pattern-making. In China, these issues are compounded by cultural and market-specific factors. Travers-Smith highlights this challenge in his work with Canada Goose in China. “One of the key steps we took was examining frame types and sizes in detail,” he says. “When they entered the market, they introduced a ‘fusion fit,’ slightly smaller and designed for a smaller frame.” As per Statista’s Key Market Indicators, the percentage of China’s population classified as overweight (BMI > 25) is projected to grow by 3.2 percentage points between 2024 and 2029, peaking at 44.03% after 15 consecutive years of growth. These consumers will demand clothing designed for bodies, not just extended sizes. Marketing body acceptance While campaigns like Neiwai's “No body is nobody” have promoted body diversity in fashion, traditional Chinese beauty ideals, summarized as “pale, young, and thin” (白幼瘦), remain deeply ingrained. “Traditional Chinese beauty standards act as a counterweight, holding back the progress made by body positivity,” says Anaïs Bournonville, CEO of marketing consultancy AB Advisory. “Many Chinese consumers fear that body positivity may conflict with health goals and view it as ‘fat activism.’ A ‘body neutrality’ movement might resonate more effectively with today’s Chinese society.” This inclusive approach is reflected in La Perla’s recent strategies in China, according to Travers-Smith. “For years, brands like Victoria’s Secret sold lingerie as something to wear for someone else, leaning heavily on sex appeal,” he says. “With La Perla, our research revealed that many women wanted lingerie for themselves, prioritizing self-confidence and personal satisfaction. The focus shifted to beautifully European-crafted, empowering products that resonate with all body types. While our campaigns featured diverse ages and demographics, they weren’t specifically centered on plus-size models. Instead, we highlighted individuals who embraced the brand’s ethos of treating oneself and incorporating the product into their lives.” Social media paradox Platforms like Xiaohongshu have played a significant role in representing non-thin bodies in China, showcasing content creators who proudly display their curves and style. Yet, these platforms also reinforce traditional beauty standards. “Xiaohongshu shows two sides of the same coin,” Bournonville says. “On one side, users openly share their height and weight or compare their waist size to an A4 sheet of paper. On the other, some posts challenge these standards with hashtags like ‘rejecting appearance anxiety’ and ‘anti-appearance anxiety alliance.’” A 2023 study by Fujian Normal University and Sichuan University of Science and Engineering found that body positivity content on Chinese social media often avoids the term “body positivity.” Instead, hashtags like “refusing facial anxiety,” “refusing figure anxiety,” “accept your imperfect self,” “love yourself,” and “original camera shot” are more commonly used. Look, there’s no real risk in offering clothing for people like us. We’re here, we’re ready to buy. So, why make your offerings exclusive when you could easily include us? For Li, this wave of inclusive content creators could encourage brands to expand their offerings and cater to more diverse body types. “We have the power to show brands that there’s interest,” she says. “Look, there’s no real risk in offering clothing for people like us. We’re here, we’re ready to buy. So, why make your offerings exclusive when you could easily include us?”

China’s plus-size fashion wake-up call

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Published December 09, 2024

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China’s plus-size fashion wake-up call