Today marks Pharrell Williams' debut at Paris Fashion Week as Louis Vuitton Men's new creative director. But in this issue, we focus on the unofficial MSCHF collab with the French luxury house made for Williams' "Just Phriends" Joopiter auction in partnership with Sarah Andelman. More on that later.

First, here are the Jing Daily collab highlights of the week:

• Here we discuss China's resale market with StockX and WGSN.
• Marsper joins celebrations of the Gucci Cosmos exhibition here.
• NFT artist Fewocious collaborates with Adidas Originals here.
• Here is why luxury should know about China's niche fragrance brands.
• Umbro China and the University of East London team up here.

This week, our global collaborations zero in on collector culture, while our China spotlights prove just how much established brands can find newness by crossing industries, from Li-Ning and Oscar Wang to Creed and Chinese hip-hop artist Benzo.

Thank you for reading, as always! Please send your feedback and tips to collabs@jingdaily.com.

—Sadie Bargeron, Collabs & Drops Editor

GLOBAL COLLABS OF THE WEEK

LOUIS VUITTON X SOTHEBY'S — Public charity auction selling 22 unique artist-designed Capucines bags, June 28 to July 12

SOCIAL CONTEXT: Louis Vuitton hasn't posted about the auction to its 53.4 million Instagram followers, likely because Pharrell Williams' menswear debut show is taking priority right now.

VERDICT:

• Louis Vuitton’s Capucines bag was launched in 2013, making it one of the brand’s more contemporary designs — some date back to the 1930s. Collaborating with artists on a prestigious Sotheby’s auction therefore gives the style more cultural capital.
• The fact that each bag is also presented in an elegant Boîte Chapeau hat box, which was first launched in 1924, helps to connect the Capucines to Louis Vuitton’s expansive history, enhancing the value of each item.
• Luxury fashion brands are only truly able to enter the art world with the assistance of artists. Yet to do so with prestige, it helps to reference cultural history like the French house has done with this collaboration.

MSCHF X LOUIS VUITTON — Microscopic Handbag made from neon-green photopolymer resin (approx. 657 by 222 by 700 micrometers), June 22 to 24

SOCIAL CONTEXT: Mschf currently has 687,000 followers on Instagram, and the official post about its Louis Vuitton bag has 80,900 likes, which is meteorically higher than its previous two announcements (22,700 and 11,800, respectively).

VERDICT:

• Despite tongue-in-cheek collective Mschf apparently not gaining official permission from Louis Vuitton to go ahead with this collaboration, the handbag was created for the “Just Phriends” sale for Joopiter, the auction house created by the luxury house’s new menswear creative director Pharrell Williams. Joopiter did remove the photo of the collab after it was uploaded, though.
• Like all of Mschf’s releases, the Microscopic bag spurs social introspection. How useful are constant luxury releases? The project reflects how the meaning of fashion now lies in its cultural prestige and connotations.
• Pre-mounted underneath a microscope, this design needs a tool to even acknowledge its beauty — a commentary on how conceptual fashion is not something that can be understood with the naked eye, perhaps.

INDIANA JONES X MÉTIER — Collector's Edition and Main Collection, June 30

SOCIAL CONTEXT: There are eight posts on Métier's Instagram about this project, posted to 35,900 followers.

VERDICT:

• The collision of Métier co-founder and creative director Melissa Morris and Academy Award-nominated English costume designer Joanna Johnston, who has worked on the Indiana Jones franchise since 1984, makes this premium movie merchandise.
• In celebration of the new movie The Dial of Destiny, the collector's collection enhances the cultural esteem of the more accessible line. It’s rare to have a costume designer actually design products for release, but that has given each piece a little more connection with the film; the collector's edition features fabrics from the actual movie.
• Métier is able to connect with the blockbuster's huge fandom while Indiana Jones has the opportunity to create luxury fashion merchandise that fuels its cultural reputation beyond film. 

CHINA COLLABS OF THE WEEK

OSCAR WANG X LI-NING — Concept for Spring 2024 show, June 20

SOCIAL CONTEXT: Li-Ning has 287,000 followers on Instagram, 436,000 on Weibo, and 32,300 on Xiaohongshu. Oscar Wang, on the other hand, currently has 23,800 on Instagram.

VERDICT:

• Chinese sportswear giant Li-Ning is presenting its Spring 2024 collection at the Centre Pompidou as part of Paris Fashion Week Men’s. Li-Ning has shown in Paris for previous seasons but has not done so since 2020. So, this comeback is an exciting move for China’s sportswear industry.
• From Fendi to Daniel Arsham’s Archive Editions to even Netflix, illustrator Oscar Wang is a versatile collaborator, and this Li-Ning project reflects just that.
• Working with an artist who is often associated with luxury brands enables the sportswear brand to have greater relevance on the schedule, too.

CREED X BENZO X FRANKNITTY300 — Song titled "Creed" featuring a cover by digital artist FrankNitty300, dedicated to Millésime Impérial fragrance, June 20

SOCIAL CONTEXT: On Weibo, Benzo has 1.4 million fans and Creed has 38,000. On Instagram, Creed has 178,000 followers, FrankNitty3000 has 40,600, and Benzo has 14,700.

VERDICT:

• Seeing as the Millésime Impérial fragrance debuted in 1995, this collaboration is a way of refreshing the product for a new generation.
• Chinese luxury consumers are notably young in comparison to the global average. Twenty-eight-year-old Benzo connects with Gen Z and early millennial consumers, while also enabling Creed to authentically associate itself with China’s music industry.
• An increasing number of luxury brands are opting to leverage music albums and soundtracks to market a lifestyle beyond physical products because it creates a more multifaceted investment for consumers.

TAI PING X QIN FENG — "Song of Solitude” five rug collection, inspired by Chinese civilization, June 13

SOCIAL CONTEXT: Tai Ping has 20,300 Instagram followers and just 5,230 on Weibo, whereas Qin Feng has 1,173 on Instagram.

VERDICT:

• For luxury bespoke carpet maker Tai Ping, collaborating with an artist like Qin Feng builds cultural capital, boosts innovation, and enhances its reputation for design.
• It's a vehicle to connect with Tai Ping's crucial consumer base: China. With the carpets becoming a canvas for his work, the partnership takes Qin Feng’s art into a new medium and fuels his evolution as an artist.
• Qin Feng, an esteemed international ink artist and the founder of Beijing’s Museum of Contemporary Art, is part of China's avant-garde movement. Yet, in addition to celebrating a domestic talent, this collaboration pays homage to ancient Chinese folklore.

READ MORE ON JING DAILY

ON OUR RADAR

1. JUNE 8: TELFAR X EASTPAK The latest installment of Telfar x Eastpak reveals a duffle bag in three sizes and three colorways of red, yellow, and black.
2. JUNE 13: BLACKPINK X TOUCHLAND The Power Mist hand sanitizer in the Blue Sandalwood scent co-branded with the K-pop group is available now.
3. JUNE 15: MCM X CROCS Strengthening its collaborative reputation, Crocs has dropped another MCM co-branded style: the Belt Bag Clogs.
4. JUNE 16: GANNI X ESTER MANAS Devoted to celebrating femininity, confidence, and sustainability, the ready-to-wear collection of dresses, swimsuits, and tees are size inclusive, made for summer beach days.
5. JUNE 22 TO 24: PHARRELL X ADIDAS ORIGINALS Three new colorways of the coveted Humanrace Samba will be sold via a pop-up café during Paris Fashion Week Men’s.

COLLAB Q&A

Credit: Rebecca MaynesEXCLUSIVE: Creed talks collaborating with Chinese hip-hop artist Benzo and digital artist FrankNitty3000

After teaming up with Chinese collectible toy brand RobbiArt earlier this year, fragrance brand House of Creed is deepening its connection with Chinese consumers by partnering with local rapper Benzo on a song. Here, Creed CEO Sarah Rotheram explains how collaborations can shape a brand's identity.

What was the process of selecting Benzo? What drew you to select him as a collaborator?

"Creed is a historic brand that places great emphasis on art, music, and fashion. For example, Creed has previously collaborated with the Royal Academy of Arts in the UK, and the fashion-related DNA is frequently showcased in the Creed's luxury brand book.

"Benzo, in addition to being a musician, studied fashion design at the China Academy of Art during his university years. As a talented individual, he aligns well with the brand's philosophy. In fact, Creed is actively considering how to establish a sustainable program that enables continuous collaboration with various talents, allowing both parties to progress together and establish their own tribe."

Why did you select a Chinese music artist as the first Creed music collaboration?

"We view China as an incredibly innovative and creative market, offering us a chance to explore new frontiers for our brand. When searching for a fresh collaboration idea exclusively for China, we discovered an incredible affinity with Benzo. His artistic background and genuine love for our brand made him the perfect fit for our first music collaboration.

"It was a natural choice to launch this exciting venture in China, where we can merge the power of music and fragrance in a way that truly resonates with our Chinese audience. Together with Benzo, we aim to create a unique experience that celebrates creativity and the essence of our brand."

What was it that drew the Creed brand to the work of FrankNitty3000?

"Staying true to our global marketing strategy of collaborating with multimedia creators who showcase creativity in diverse disciplines, we sought an alternative approach to bring our album cover to life. We wanted a dynamic and visually captivating format that truly captures our creative expression.

"After closely following Frank's work for some time, we were struck by his ability to infuse focus subjects, such as Benzo and our iconic gold bottle, into mesmerizing digital artwork that seamlessly transcends various digital platforms. His unique style perfectly aligns with our vision of creating a captivating and unified visual experience."

In what ways are you expecting this collaboration to feed into Creed's 2023 brand identity?

"Through the fusion of various creative disciplines, each rooted in the common value of artistry, we strive to bring our three brand pillars — heritage, craftsmanship, and modernity — to life in exhilarating ways. By embarking on this collaborative journey, we aim to inspire and deeply resonate with our fans. This innovative approach allows us to amplify the essence of our brand and push the boundaries of our identity.

"By integrating diverse artistic expressions, we create a compelling tapestry of experiences that captivate, inspire, and evoke a sense of wonder. Ultimately, our goal is to forge deep connections with our audience and establish our brand as a beacon of creativity and innovation in the industry."

Are you planning more music collabs after this?

"Music is surely a discipline we all feel inspired by, so you can expect to see more music collaborations in the future. Watch this space."