From Blackpink’s Jennie to chicken feet boots: How Avavav's meme-worthy fashion wins in China

Few independent Western brands are consistently going viral in China. However, every Milan Fashion Week season, the hashtag “Avavav stirs controversy by models walking the catwalk without wearing proper clothes” (#avavav会搞事 没穿好衣服就走秀) emerges on Weibo, amassing over 18 million reads. Spreading smiles across the “frows,” Swedish brand Avavav has truly harnessed the power of a viral catwalk. Models have fallen (Spring 2023), rushed to finish getting dressed while walking (Spring 2024), and even had trash thrown at them (Fall 2024) — each moment engaging netizens, provoking thoughtful existential reflections, and injecting some much-needed joy into fashion. Avavav’s viral runway stunts Before these viral catwalks, the Avavav story began with an entire relaunch in 2020, when Beate Karlsson was named creative director, and the brand started booming as a meme-worthy favorite. One early internet moment was Doja Cat wearing Avavav’s chicken feet boots to present at the 2021 VMAs. Karlsson, originally known for making wearable silicone butts and body parts, whimsically combines contemporary art and fashion, helping the Florence-based Swedish brand build a massive fanbase in China. “While our market distribution fluctuates from season to season, China remains one of our top five key markets. Its influence on global fashion and the strong engagement we receive from Chinese consumers continue to make it a significant focus for us,” says a spokesperson from the Avavav team. Meme-worthy fashion fuels engagement On Xiaohongshu (also known as RedNote), the brand’s hashtag has amassed 73.6 million reads, with posts not just referencing its entertaining catwalk shows but also its plethora of eye-catching pieces. These include finger-feet footwear, “Monster XXL” faux fur boots, and avant-garde “Panda” sunglasses. As the debate over fashion weeks’ role in brand success becomes increasingly divisive, Avavav is proving that viral moments can translate into sales. Particularly in China, consumers are often captivated by controversial designs — Balenciaga’s plastic tape bangle continues to be a hot topic of conversation almost a year on, for example. “Unlike other regions in Asia, where brand heritage or craftsmanship may play a more significant role, China’s fashion landscape is driven by rapid digital trends, influencer collaborations, and social commerce,” Magnus Omsetedt, CEO and founder of Tritanium Ventures, says. “The key to sustained success is engaging consumers in a way that encourages them to actively share and amplify the brand’s story across China’s social media platforms.” While these share-worthy fashion statements have heightened Avavav’s visibility in China, it’s the brand’s growing fanbase — not its active social commerce strategy — that has driven its success. Interestingly, Avavav’s own accounts have a relatively small following across Chinese social media. Instead, it’s the brand’s fans who are behind the high engagement. Blackpink’s Lisa, Adidas, and Avavav: A Winning Trio “A significant portion of our user-generated content and press coverage originates from APAC. Every other day we see K-pop idols wearing Avavav on stage, and it makes us feel so honored and proud,” says the Avavav team. Among those K-pop stars, Blackpink’s Jennie Kim has performed wearing head-to-toe Avavav x Adidas. The Swedish brand has managed to break through the noise of global sportswear collaborations with this German sportswear tie-up. “Avavav’s collaboration with Adidas is a prime example of how such partnerships can elevate an emerging brand, providing credibility and greater visibility in competitive markets like Asia,” says Omsetedt. Unveiled at Milan Fashion Week last year, the Avavav x Adidas collection features floor-length track jacket dresses, Superfinger Superstar sneakers, and other unconventional reinterpretations of the brand’s signatures. The weird and wonderful nature of Avavav’s avant-garde aesthetic lands well among APAC consumers, who the Avavav team reports as more experimental with their fashion choices: “This reception is incredibly validating, as it reflects a deep understanding and appreciation of our brand’s aesthetic in the region.” Wholesale strategy: Why Avavav is expanding in brick-and-mortar Avavav’s confidence in APAC shoppers stems from its stability in wholesale across China, Japan, and South Korea. The company explains that its growth strategy in East Asia is centered around its presence in premium multi-brand stores, as its designs are “best experienced in a physical retail environment.” Thanks to robust consumer engagement, the brand has secured 22 stockists in China, including AMBIversion in Xiamen City, Sixty Friends in Guangdong, and Double Boo in Beijing. That compares to just four store locations in Japan and three in South Korea. Avavav’s future in China: Can the shock factor last? “While digital channels remain important, we see in-store engagement as a key driver for brand discovery and long-term growth in the region, which is why we are planning several activations and pop-ups in APAC in the near future,” says the Avavav team. Naturally, the monster-like designs that rack up high engagement online aren’t necessarily best-sellers. However, building up the exuberant world surrounding the brand adds another layer of appeal to more toned-down styles, such as the cut-out dresses, ultra-cropped hoodies, or colorful printed co-ordinate looks. Avavav’s ability to blend humor, avant-garde fashion, and viral moments has positioned it as a standout fashion brand in China. By embracing user-generated content and organic social media engagement, the brand has cultivated a loyal fanbase that actively amplifies its presence. Without a more structured social commerce strategy or deeper cultural localization, the brand does risk being overshadowed by fleeting digital trends. While its wholesale presence provides stability, Avavav will need to balance the shock factor with enduring desirability to maintain its momentum in China’s fast-moving fashion market.

How Avavav’s meme-worthy fashion won in China

Upgrade to Pro

Sectors

Insights

Company

How Avavav’s meme-worthy fashion won in China