No displays of wealth? No problem, says China’s Gen Z

All over the world, people are fascinated by extreme wealth. Influencers who flaunt the fastest cars or the most expensive jewels amass millions of followers, and celebrity house tours are instant hits. However, despite enjoying wealth as a spectator sport, Gen Z trends are something of an antidote to conspicuous consumption. “Chinese Gen Z (consumers) are shifting towards a more relaxed and toned-down style, moving away from opulence,” ex-Hypebae China Fashion Editor Gracie Chen says. Despite trending hashtags like “eat the rich,” Western social media continues to encourage performative ostentation. Over in China, though, the government has been cracking down on displays of wealth for a while. Just this year, three of the mainland’s leading ultra-wealthy influencers boasting millions of followers – Wang Hongquanxing, Baoyujiajie, and Bo Gongzi vanished from Chinese social media platforms. Amid President Xi Jinping implementing efforts to regulate “excessively high incomes,” the government has been orchestrating various measures against flashing cash online. There was the ban of advertisements on TV and radio luxury goods in 2013, then in the 2020s, thousands of Douyin, Xiaohongshu or Weibo accounts were routinely removed or blocked for flaunting wealth. Some platforms have released censorship guidelines to help users avoid penalties for showboating their riches. Quiet luxury Beyond China’s crackdown on peacocking prosperity, quiet luxury has taken over fashion and style subcultures over recent years. Though quiet luxury looks are costly, with houses like The Row, Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta, and Lemaire leading the way, there are no blatant logos, so it is a way of displaying under-the-radar wealth. The decline of “logomania” and “gorpcore” has led to trending “Ivy League” styles and minimalist basics that encompass a more toned-down way of dressing. #Quietluxury has 15.7 million views on Xiaohongshu, with looks that exude an air of sophisticated elegance without garish brand tags. Antonin Ficatier, Editorial Director Western Europe at market research firm YPulse, says that Gen Z consumers are navigating the conundrum of wanting to make sustainable fashion choices while also being mindful of affordability. “This tension is reflected in their style habits, as they seek to balance these often conflicting priorities,” he says. Ugly work outfits Another booming trend entertaining the internet is the rise of “ugly office looks.” Racking up 47.3 million views on Xiaohongshu, the hashtag #disgustingworkoutfits (上班恶心穿搭) is one of the most unconventional new generation fashion trends to emerge over the past year. It all started on Douyin when “Kendou S” posted a video in her slippers and PJs, accessorized with a brown sweater dress and a pair of holey woolen gloves, ready for a day in the office. Whether it’s rocking pajamas, socks and sandals, your comfiest grandma fleece or all of the above in a purposely clashing concoction, these office looks are far from immaculate, and categorically not lavish. The trend comes as no surprise to forecasters and brand strategists, as two of the defining characteristics of Gen Z are, according to Ficatier, “individual expression and unconventional standards.” “This includes a move away from traditional beauty norms to embrace unique looks and personal style preferences,” he adds. “They are unafraid to experiment with their appearances, as [also] seen in men’s fashion with the embrace of tiny tops, bedazzled suits, handbags, and a variety of accessories.” Laid-back looks On the topic of China’s Gen Z’s love for laid-back fashion, Chen points to the term “relaxed white girl style” “白女松弛感,” which describes a “shift toward less flashy colors and clothing without prominent logos.” This trend’s aesthetics and styling comprise internet-favorite girly comforts and eschews luxury brands like Dior or Chanel. On Xiaohongshu, the hashtag “white girl aesthetics” (#白女美学) is at 12.7 million views. “It’s quite a controversial phrase, representing the collective imagination on Chinese social media of affluent middle-class white women, often from California,” says Chen. “This concept encompasses their casual attire and laid-back style, giving off an impression as if they have never experienced any hardships. Their classic fashion choices typically include items like Stanley water cups, Lululemon clothing, Ugg shoes, and nude lip gloss, all symbolizing an effortlessly chic but luxurious lifestyle.” Though this trend might signify wealthy living among Gen Z, it’s far from the exhibitionist extravagance that President Xi Jinping is striving to deter. Rather than the brash flashing of cash that might have been more popular among older generations, the new era is being driven more by sustainable living and the “joy economy,” says Ficatier. “Gen Z’s style habits are influenced by a willingness to spend on experiences and items that bring happiness,” he says. “This trend is expected to influence their fashion and design tastes, indicating that brands should cater to the desire for joy and happiness in their offerings.” Whether it is wearing humor-inducing looks to the office, or donning comfort fashion like premium activewear and fur boots, Gen Z is the demographic that aspires to live a happy life, rather than one that reflects extravagance.

No displays of wealth? No problem, says China’s Gen Z

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Published July 09, 2024

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No displays of wealth? No problem, says China’s Gen Z