Stunting with a plethora of blockbuster KOLs in attendance, from Kylie Jenner to Zendaya and Jennifer Lopez, Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week came to a close on Thursday, January 25.
Collaboration-wise, the three-day showcase served some major collections. Simone Rocha was the latest of Jean Paul Gaultier’s guest designers, following in the footsteps of Julien Dossena, Chitose Abe, Glenn Martens, and Haider Ackermann.
Music artist Kendrick Lamar and American filmmaker Dave Free partnered unexpectedly with Chanel, while Audemars Piguet and Tamara Ralph showcased an exquisite limited-edition watch.
Here, we delve into the workings of these three couture collaborations. Subscribe here to receive this news in our weekly Collabs & Drops newsletter, hitting your inbox every Tuesday.
Simone Rocha x Jean Paul Gaultier#
Details: Couture collection, Spring 2024
Social context: On Instagram, the joint post between Jean Paul Gaultier and Simone Rocha has the most likes at 36,400. Makeup master Alexis Stone dressed as Lana Del Rey for the show garnered the most views on Jean Paul Gaultier's TikTok account, with 82,200 likes.
The verdict:
- Since 2010, Simone Rocha has evolved into one of the leading designers on the London Fashion Week schedule. Known for her overtly feminine style, she has inked high-profile collaborations with the likes of H&M, Moncler, and now Jean Paul Gaultier.
- The look with the most likes on Simone Rocha’s account (over 3,000) is a tulle see-through corset gown that wonderfully merges the signatures of both Simone Rocha and Jean Paul Gaultier. This is followed by a post with over 2,000 likes, which features a black ruched gown with corsetry running down the back.
- Collaborating with a haute couture atelier allows Rocha to push the boundaries of her work, showcasing her interpretation of more “traditional” gowns while maintaining her unique design language, fronted by bows and bell skirts.
Chanel x Kendrick Lamar and Dave Free#
Details: Short film titled “The Button,” Spring 2024 Haute Couture show
Social context: The post on Chanel’s Instagram with the most likes has over 150,700, featuring actress and House ambassador Margaret Qualley. Dave Free and PG Lang’s joint post received over 91,500 likes.
The verdict:
- The whimsical film, exploring the themes of time and transmission, was written and directed by Free and scored by Lamar. It stars Margaret Qualley, with cameos by Naomi Campbell and Anna Mouglalis. In addition to promoting Chanel, the film also highlights PGLang, Kendrick, and Free's American independent multidisciplinary creative communications company.
- The storyline revolves around Qualley's quest to perfect a white Chanel jacket, symbolizing the pursuit of beauty within the imperfection of time, depicting couture as not just a celebration of fashion but an extension of art. Despite the show opening with an unreleased Kendrick song, the actual collection received mixed reviews online.
- Chanel doesn’t often play into pop culture trends and the zeitgeist, but this move pushed the show into mainstream consciousness. From the Manchester fashion show to this, we are excited to see what the French luxury house has in store for 2024.
Audemars Piguet x Tamara Ralph#
Details: Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon timepiece
Social context: The Tamara Ralph post on Audemars Piguet's Instagram has over 7,700 likes.
The verdict:
- Featuring a frosted pink gold case, a multi-layered dial inspired by Ralph’s signature aesthetics, and a flying tourbillon at the 6 o’clock position, the timepiece incorporates the attention to detail that haute couture is renowned for.
- Revealed during Tamara Ralph's Spring/Summer 2024 Haute Couture Fashion Week show in Paris on January 22, the watch design strengthens the connection between haute horlogerie and haute couture. It builds on the partnership between Audemars Piguet and Tamara Ralph that began in 2020.
- The former creative director and co-founder of Ralph & Russo, Tamara Ralph has an extensive fanbase in luxury fashion, offering Audemars Piguet a deeper association with haute couture.