Is Maison Margiela in trouble in China?

2024 belongs to Maison Margiela. From that Artisanal show to the Tabi boot’s mainstream ascent, the French luxury house — founded by Belgian designer Martin Margiela in 1988 — defined cultural conversation this year. But is the brand losing ground in China? Just yesterday, the fashion industry was shocked when it was announced that creative director John Galliano would be leaving after spending a decade at the helm of the Paris-based brand. Last month, OTB Group, the parent company of Maison Margiela, Marni, and Jil Sander, closed several Maison Margiela stores across the country, including locations in Kunming, Shanghai’s IFC Mall, and Hong Kong’s K11 Musea. The closures took place despite the brand’s sales jumping 72.4% across the mainland last year. China store closures combined with Galliano's departure leads us to question: is the brand facing trouble? China’s cult favorite Maison Margiela has long been a favorite among lovers of directional fashion worldwide. That cult status is particularly pronounced in China. “Maison Margiela resonates with luxury buyers across the country who now prefer understated elegance over the flashy logos that were popular 15-20 years ago,” Grace Lam, a fashion stylist and former senior fashion editor at Vogue China, tells Jing Daily. Pooky Lee, founder and creative director of Shanghai-based creative marketing and production agency Poptag, echoes this sentiment. “The brand ignites new interest among both existing and aspiring Chinese consumers who value individuality and avant-garde artistry, as it does with the rest of the world,” he says. On Gen Z style hub Xiaohongshu, the brand has over 111,000 followers and more than 304,000 likes across its content. Fashion enthusiasts use the platform to share the brand’s history, styling tips, and their favorite scents from its fragrance line. The hashtag “maisonmargiela香水” (#maisonmargielaperfume), for example, has over 13,000 UGC impressions, while “tabi分趾鞋” (#tabi split toe shoes) has over 21,000. New contenders are emerging to challenge the title of China’s cult favorite, with brands like Miu Miu and Lemaire seizing the spotlight. Could their rising popularity threaten Maison Margiela’s once-unshakable status on the mainland? Lam argues that Maison Margiela’s one-of-a-kind identity makes such a scenario unlikely. “Maison Margiela’s avant-garde designs offer a more experimental journey,” she says. “The brand focuses on individuality and pushing boundaries for those consumers looking for a deeper creative expression. While there might be some overlap in their audiences, each brand appeals to a unique demographic with different tastes.” Underground to mainstream pipeline Once revered by the avant-garde style set, the brand has steadily moved into the mainstream in recent years, largely thanks to its viral Artisanal SS24 couture show, which sparked a global online frenzy among fashion enthusiasts. On TikTok, there are 64.9 million posts dedicated to “Maison Margiela makeup,” as users attempt to recreate the show’s glass skin looks. Over on Xiaohongshu, the show kickstarted the “porcelain doll filter” (瓷娃滤镜) trend, where netizens use AI to reimagine themselves as doll-like effigies. The Tabi boot, the label’s split-toe flagship product that debuted in 1988, has also risen in popularity over the past few years. Unlikely celebrity endorsements from Kylie Jenner and Dua Lipa, along with the infamous Tabi swiper — a man who reportedly stole and later returned a pair of Maison Margiela Tabi Mary Janes from his Tinder date — have propelled the shoe through the art-school niche-to-mass product pipeline. So much so that global shopping platform Lyst reported a 342% spike in searches for Tabi boots in September 2023, earning them the top spot on its hottest product index for Q3. But cracks in the Tabi’s reputation are beginning to show — quite literally. Complaints about flimsy soles and toe holes have been circulating on apps like TikTok and Xiaohongshu, raising concerns about the product’s durability. Market oversaturation is also eroding its cult status, making the shoe yet another casualty of the internet’s relentless trend cycle. Fast fashion giant Fashion Nova, for instance, is now selling its own replica of the Tabi for just $25. Falling under scrutiny It’s bad PR for Maison Margiela, which has been bumping up the prices of its Tabi shoes in response to surging demand. While higher prices help maintain their exclusivity, they also risk alienating consumers — particularly at a time when luxury spending is already under pressure. Meanwhile, the house’s poor sustainability credentials pose a threat to its performance, with ethical fashion evaluator Good On You giving Maison Margiela an overall rating of “We Avoid.” As China’s Gen Z becomes more discerning about luxury brands’ environmental practices, a lack of transparency in production could trigger boycotts among socially conscious shoppers. As a result, Lam suggests that the brand would benefit from adopting a more sustainability-driven ethos to complement its directional philosophy. Lee, on the other hand, argues that while sustainability is important in theory, it doesn’t significantly drive consumer behavior in practice. “We always say Gen Z consumers in China are becoming more environmentally conscious and holding brands accountable for their social and ecological impact,” he says. “But when it comes to whether being sustainable affects real purchase decisions, the impact is limited.” Looking beyond China Maison Margiela is setting its sights across East Asia to offset mainland China’s luxury market slowdown. In October, Maison Margiela Fragrances opened a dedicated boutique in Seoul’s Gangnam District, followed by its first flagship store in the upscale Hannam-dong neighborhood in November. In February of last year, the brand also announced a long-term collaboration with Gentle Monster, the South Korean luxury eyewear disruptor that has achieved a similar cult-like following among Asia’s style-conscious consumers. The duo unveiled the second chapter of their partnership in March. The challenge for Maison Margiela is to expand without diluting its niche appeal, notes Lam. To safeguard its cult status, she suggests doubling down on exclusive digital content and tech-driven campaigns to resonate with China and the rest of APAC’s tech-savvy audiences. Lam adds that enhancing physical retail through immersive pop-ups and localized events can help deepen consumer engagement. Last year, the brand blended food and fashion with its inaugural concept café at Changsha IFS, scaling up its experiential offerings. Despite recent hurdles, Lee is confident Maison Margiela’s cultural cachet in China will endure, pointing to its Artisanal show as proof of its staying power. “People complain that fashion has become flat in recent years due to over-expansion and commercialization. But in the case of Maison Margiela, it proves that authentic creativity and intellectual depth in design will always be the key driving force behind the brand for cultural relevance anywhere,” he says.

Is Maison Margiela in trouble in China?

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Published December 12, 2024

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Is Maison Margiela in trouble in China?