Inside China’s ‘quiet luxury’ store boom

The antidote to streetwear or Y2K maximalism, “quiet luxury” has been at the fore of the fashion industry for a few years now. Partly a sustainability-driven outcome of reduced consumption, minimalist investment basics are in their heyday in China, and beyond. Trend leaders like The Row, Bottega Veneta, Toteme, and Skims all sit comfortably on the Lyst Index of hottest brands for Q3 of 2024. The trend has gained such momentum that it is driving optimism in China’s otherwise subdued retail scene. Over the course of 2024, a handful of “quiet luxury” players have been investing in physical retail, just as others pivot to e-commerce. The Row made its first brick-and-mortar move with a pop-up at SKP in Chengdu and Beijing in April; Acne Studios reopened its Beijing flagship in May while Isabel Marant reopened its in June; and Our Legacy opened an SKP pop-up last month, its debut venture in China, which will run until March. Most recently, cult Parisian brand Lemaire opened its first ever physical China store, at Chengdu’s Taikoo Li, on November 12 following on from its Tmall flagship, which launched in 2022. The move instills confidence considering the mainland’s love for Lemaire, with the brand hashtag already at 290 million reads on Xiaohongshu. Prioritizing quality The beauty of “quiet luxury” and its anticipated longevity is down to it technically being anti-trend, which channels the ethos of the French brand. Co-artistic directors Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran tell Jing Daily, “We have always emancipated ourselves from trends, which are, by definition, ephemeral. The idea is to stand out without ostentation – no need to go against the grain of the industry and shout it out loud. Our modular wardrobe is crafted from fabrics selected for their quality and designed for everyday wear.” Across China, luxury consumers are prioritizing manufacturing and craftsmanship — preferences that bridge young and more mature demographics. While older consumers are inclined to invest in high-quality fabrics, Gen Z-loved Xiaohongshu is on the other hand brimming with effortlessly chic toned-down ensembles of cashmere and high-quality denim — for context, #toteme has 116 million reads and #therow has 162.1 million on the platform. Furthermore, according to a report by Xiaohongshu, the most popular handbags among Chinese shoppers are by “quiet luxury” brands like Bottega Veneta, Hermès, Loro Piana, and Toteme. Investment sportswear’s rise As Lemaire and Tran say, it is the “refined practicality” that attracts Chinese customers to Lemaire. This mentality extends into the sportswear space, with more minimalist, well-manufactured brands also performing well and expanding their retail presence in the mainland over 2024. Prioritizing staple pieces incorporating esteemed fabric technology, Stone Island has opened three new stores in the market this year, in Ningbo’s Hankyu, Shanghai’s TaiKoo Li QianTan, and Galaxy Macau, as well as launching a WeChat miniprogram. In July, CP Company opened its first flagship China store in Shanghai. Both brands are world-famous for high-end clothes that are predominantly available in grays, blacks, and neutral shades. Also known for pieces that champion technical fabric and luxurious minimalism is Danish cyclist brand Pas Normal Studios. This year, the company established a China team and office, with plans to open a retail store in the near future. China General Manager at Pas Normal Studios, Alexander Schandorff, says on the topic of the “quiet luxury” trend, “More than anything, I think our increasing popularity is about cyclists valuing authentic brands that deliver on quality and design. What we see is a genuine appreciation for brands that not only make great products but also engage authentically with the community.” That social element of branding is key to succeeding, and a common element among the brands advancing in China retail. At the same time, a plethora of brands that could be considered “quiet luxury,” such as Jil Sander and Maison Margiela, have shuttered stores in China this year. The former exited Xiamen and Chengdu, and the latter has closed its locations in Kunming, Shanghai’s IFC Mall, and Hong Kong’s K11 Musea. Since 2022, OTB has launched 103 stores in carefully chosen locations across China, while shutting others that were less in sync with its brand strategy. The company explained that certain closures were part of efforts to relocate to areas better suited to reaching specific audiences and reinforcing brand alignment. Closures were not necessarily down to poor performance. Maison Margiela, for one, posted 10.2% year-on-year growth in full year revenue for 2023. And, in 2023, Jil Sander also thrived, generating 17.3% revenue growth at constant exchange rates. The surge of interest in well-structured durable pieces over fashion statements aligns with a rising interest in wellness and sport. Lemaire and Tran say that Lemaire garments “are thought as an extension of the perfectly proportioned home, intimate allies that will act as a protective shelter.” These are clothes that complement an active lifestyle. “We’re seeing a new generation of dedicated cyclists in China who are really passionate about the sport,” says Schandorff. “These riders value both performance and quality.” An investment wardrobe that carries consumers through their day-to-day lives looks to be the future for China’s fashion landscape. The retail openings of 2024 prove that “quiet luxury” is here to stay.

Inside China’s ‘quiet luxury’ store boom

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Published November 15, 2024

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Inside China’s ‘quiet luxury’ store boom