Is 66°North gearing up to conquer global fashion?

“You can’t get a better outerwear laboratory than Iceland,” says 66°North CEO Helgi Óskarsson. Celebrating its 99th anniversary this year (66 upside down), the brand was founded in 1926 through Icelandic fisherman, Hans Kristjánsson, designing protective gear for felllow fisherman, and to battle the North Atlantic elements. Fast forward to 2025 and it’s kitting consumers out in non-extreme climates, too. As part of its pivot toward the style set, the company hired Louis Vuitton menswear designer Kei Toyoshima as creative director in 2022. From collaborating with Ganni since 2019, to launching two collections with London-based independent designer Charlie Constantinou, and having just exhibited at Copenhagen fashion week for Fall 2025, 66°North is evidently fixed on competing as a global fashion outerwear player. But is there space in the industry? Navigating a competitive scene “We’ve seen transformative growth within the outerwear space in recent years, which has partially been accelerated by trends, ‘gorpcore’ being one of the most pervasive, but also by a more panoramic brand strategy that has seen the most successful case studies confidently collaborate with, and co-exist within, other spaces,” brand strategist Steve Salter says. “Moncler Genius is one of the most obvious and ambitious examples.” The outerwear market is becoming increasingly competitive as luxury and premium brands strengthen their presence and elevate their business models to become more like luxury houses. Rising to the competition will require a multifaceted global strategy, but Salter believes there is potential. “For a start, 66°North has a richer history than Moncler and Canada Goose, having been founded in 1926, whereas they were launched in the 1950s; so, that’s an advantage from a brand positioning perspective,” he adds. Salter urges the brand not to get caught up in the moves of other outerwear players, and follow its own path as it builds upon its own unique history and conscious philosophy to ensure its place at the intersection of culture, commerce and community. As a smaller company with just four stockists across Hong Kong, Japan, and South Korea, there is a lot of room for growth. Established as a B Corp, 66°North uses organic or recycled cotton, merino wool, and other durable fibers and fabrics, with a focus on extreme weather conditions and sustainability. That said, it is now re-strategizing, setting its sights set on less extreme markets — it opened its first store outside of the Nordics in December 2022. As the brand looks to global expansion, it is no secret that competition is heating up. Just this week, OTB reported that Moncler achieved 15% YoY sales growth in 2024. The French-Italian label operates 137 mono-brand boutiques across Asia alone. Meanwhile, Canada Goose maintains a strong foothold in Asia, particularly in Japan, with around 400 stockists catering to local demand for high-performance outerwear. Along with that, Moose Knuckles has strategically partnered with Chinese powerhouse Bosideng, solidifying its market expansion. The brand operates about 10 stores in key Chinese cities like Shanghai and Beijing, with plans to further extend its footprint in Guangzhou, Ningbo, and Chengdu. Global expansion could lead to China Though it is early days, Óskarsson says that 66°North is in discussion with Chinese retailers. “There is a big appetite among Chinese customers for the brand in our stores,” he says. “They shop more than anyone else, and buy more. Our Chinese customers tend to go for more expensive items — the absolute premium of pieces that are scratching the luxury surface.” This demand should not be overlooked. It was reported that in 2024, China’s winter apparel market outperformed the Asia-Pacific region, contributing to 35.4% of global market revenue. However, the outerwear arena is crowded. Domestic leader Bosideng’s part-acquisition of Moose Knuckles exemplifies just how heated the competition is. Brand consultant and Central Saint Martins MA Fashion Communications course leader Roger Tredre, says, “66°North would be entering a crowded market, where China already has internal expertise, most notably in down jackets through Bosideng, a business that has been around for 50 years.” Bosideng has invested heavily in R&D, which gives it a strong technological edge. On the plus side, demand is strong for high-quality outerwear, particularly in the northeast — and there is always room for competitors who can find that tricky-to-determine blend of technical excellence and fashion.” Collaboration strategy Though it might appear a more recent focus for the company, 66°North has actually long considered the fashion industry in its designs. Whether that was through the chic raincoats that it designed for women in the 1970s, or the ultra cool snow suits worn by the Icelandic Winter Olympians in 1998. “We’ve always tried to stay relevant with our customers,” Óskarsson says. “When my wife and I took over the company [in 2011], the most expensive item was 550 euros ($576). Now our most expensive item in retail is around 2,000. We have been moving the company up into a luxury brand.” In doing so, fashion collaborations have become intrinsic to the brand formula. Strategically, 66°North worked with Ganni on a collection when it was debuting in the label’s hometown of Copenhagen, just as it worked with London-based talent Charlie Constantinou when launching in the UK’s capital. Building on heritage while looking forward “Ganni was a great example of how we could bring our strengths in protectiveness, durability, quality, manufacturing, and skills to a company that has relevance within a culture. We wanted to be part of that cool Copenhagen freedom, of riding on a bike and wearing a cool jacket that protects you as well,” says Óskarsson. “We have a lot of exciting projects in the pipeline — some we can discuss, and others we can’t just yet,” he adds. “As a brand deeply rooted in performance, quality, and durability, we have to strike a balance between collaborations that enhance our identity and those that purely expand our reach.” One standout partnership mentioned by the brand’s CEO is with Rory Griffin, founder of Orienteer magazine, who is spearheading a performance-focused running line that merges function with style — perfect for fashion-conscious athletes. Meanwhile, photographer and filmmaker Chris Burkard, known for his deep ties to both Iceland and California, is set to release a collection for Spring/Summer 2025, with a winter range also in the works. These collaborations highlight a broader trend of brands tapping into niche creative communities to elevate their presence in the competitive outerwear market. The China opportunity and challenge As 66°North sets its sights on global expansion, the brand faces both opportunity and fierce competition. With strategic collaborations, a focus on performance-driven design, and growing interest from Chinese consumers, the Icelandic label is positioning itself to be a key player in the luxury outerwear space. The challenge now lies in illustrating the rich, distinct brand identity amid industry giants while maintaining a balance between technical excellence and fashion-forward appeal.

Is 66°North gearing up to conquer global fashion?

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Published February 21, 2025

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Is 66°North gearing up to conquer global fashion?