Why Victoria’s Secret’s promise falls short in China

When Mei*, a fashion-forward woman in her 30s living in Shanghai, booked the Angel Suite at a Victoria’s Secret store for herself and a group of friends, she envisioned a fun afternoon of trying on beautiful lingerie and leaving with pink shopping bags in hand. But as a size 12 or XL in the West, her experience was far from what she had expected. “The only things available for me were oversized hoodies and plain sleepwear,” she tells Jing Daily. “The larger items had no designs — just basic, shapeless pieces. I tried on three different things, but eventually, I gave up. Every time I asked if they had a certain style in my size, the answer was always no.” By the third “no,” Mei stopped asking. “It was exhausting and frustrating to keep trying, only to be shut down. While my friends were happily buying cute outfits, I felt jealous.” Despite its recent rebranding and promises of inclusivity, Victoria’s Secret still fails to cater to many women. The fantasy it once sold in the U.S. collapsed under the weight of the #MeToo movement and the push to liberate women from the male gaze. While the brand has attempted to course-correct by appointing diverse models, Mei’s experience suggests that this inclusivity remains largely performative, with store offerings typically excluding larger sizes. Ironically, Paloma Elsesser and Ashley Graham — two size 16, or XXXL, models who walked in the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show in 2024 — would not be able to find their size in that Shanghai store. China: A booming market with conservative tastes Chinese brands like Neiwai, Ubras, Bananain, and Livary Mio have thrived by leveraging e-commerce to sell underwear and loungewear to local women. The country’s nightwear and lingerie market is expected to grow from $17.46 billion in 2025 to $20.16 billion in 2029, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 3.66%, according to Statista Market Insights. While Mei wants more options for stylish and colorful lace bras in size 12, many Chinese consumers prioritize comfort, quality, and discretion over bold, Western-style lingerie. “Influenced by Confucian values, Chinese consumers tend to be more reserved about body exposure and prefer lingerie that feels natural and effortless,” says Su Luo, a Taipei-based cultural strategist and market researcher. “This contrasts sharply with Victoria’s Secret’s long-established brand identity, which centers around the ‘perfect body’ and sexual appeal.” “Influenced by Confucian values, Chinese consumers tend to be more reserved about body exposure and prefer lingerie that feels natural and effortless.” This cultural preference has driven demand for soft, wireless bras, seamless designs, and breathable fabrics, which prioritize everyday wearability over provocative aesthetics. Beyond personal preferences, lingerie choices in China are also influenced by social and political factors. “There’s a strong element of both social spectatorship and self-spectatorship in choosing a bra,” says research and strategy consultant Enke Huang. “It’s not just about personal preference — such as color, texture, or shape — but also about how others might perceive you. Political and body censorship in China is an everyday reality, which means many women consider not just what they like but also how society might judge their choices.” Japan and South Korea: Redefining lingerie with regional aesthetics Unlike in China, the nightwear and underwear markets in Japan and South Korea are either declining or stagnating. In Japan, the market is projected to shrink at a compound annual growth rate of -0.17%, while in South Korea, it is expected to see minimal growth at 0.95% CAGR during the forecast period of 2025-2029, according to Statista Market Insights. While Victoria’s Secret traditionally sells sex appeal through a Western, hyper-glamorous lens, brands in Japan and South Korea cater to regional aesthetics and cultural expectations of sensuality — ones that feel more refined, soft, and stylish rather than overtly provocative. Brands like Peach John in Japan have built success by tapping into the kawaii aesthetic. “Japanese appeal comes from cuteness, which is known as kawaii here,” Koji Nishizawa, president of Peach John, stated in 2024. “A mission we have with our products is to shift the mindsets of wearers, allowing them to exude more self-confidence and be more kawaii both outside and inside. Regardless of body size, shape, we want every single customer to feel confident in themselves.” Chinese designer Susan Fang, who collaborated with Victoria's Secret in 2024, said South Korea is one of the emerging regions for her modern fairytale garments. “I feel it’s quite important to branch out in Japan and Korea, because the Japanese aesthetic, [which is] very joyful and colorful and slightly cute, fits in [with] our commercial line,” she previously told Jing Daily. “Now, K-pop is a big influence all over Asia, so it can also help China sales.” The illusion of inclusivity Mei’s frustrations extend beyond Western brands. She described an even worse experience with local lingerie label Neiwai, which has been praised for its commitment to body diversity through campaigns like “No Body Is Nobody.” “Every time I asked a salesperson if they had my size, the answer was always no,” she says. “I find their approach really pretentious. They use slogans to promote diversity and appear international, but it’s all just branding. When it comes to their actual products, they ignore the very people they claim to represent.” Neiwai has built a reputation as a brand for “all women,” yet its messaging remains aspirational and limited to a specific type of beauty that resonates with Chinese consumers. “The women depicted by brands like Neiwai and Maia Active — despite showcasing a wider range of skin tones, sizes, and beauty standards — could still be considered conventionally attractive,” Zoe Liu, a cultural strategist and semiotician, explains. “From a Western perspective, you might think they don’t seem too inclusive! There’s still a sense of ‘polish’ to the brand; it’s aesthetic and aspirational, yet they do represent growing inclusivity.” The brands listening to real women To address fit challenges, some lingerie brands have introduced “one-size-fits-all” collections, such as Neiwai’s Barely Zero line. But for Mei, these products still fail to deliver. “A bra is personal. It needs to be customized to your body,” she says. “It’s like foundation — would you say one foundation shade works for everyone? No. Stretchy fabric alone isn’t enough. Even Lululemon offers size 14 in China.” Some local brands are taking a different approach. Natapar (NaiTangPai) and Toffee are actively researching the pain points of plus-size consumers by engaging with them directly through QQ, Douban, and WeChat groups. Unlike traditional market research, these brands prioritize user feedback to ensure their designs cater to the needs of larger-busted women in China. For international brands looking to succeed in China’s evolving lingerie market, the key is understanding and respecting the women they want to dress. “Even five years ago, it was more important to appeal to the empowered modern female consumer than to focus on the male gaze in campaigns,” Jonathan Travers-Smith, founder and CEO of consultancy Hot Pot China, which worked on La Perla’s China expansion, tells Jing Daily. “Understanding her life, pressures, joys, and aspirations is key to landing your brand in the right way and avoiding well-trodden paths of others in the lingerie space. Who is she, and how do you empower her? If you get this right, you will have the ability to build true brand equity in China with potential for new lines, extensions, and collaborations,” he adds. *Name changed to protect the source’s anonymity.

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Why Victoria’s Secret’s promise falls short in China