What are ‘horse face skirts’ and why are they going viral?

What Happened? On February 20, leading Chinese e-commerce platform JD.com reported that sales of traditional Hanfu clothing had surged over 300 percent year on year since January. Sales of “horse face skirts,” a style of hanfu skirt known as mamianqun (马面褶裙) in Mandarin, climbed 325 percent over the Spring Festival period alone. This trend was mirrored on Taobao, where, over the Double 11 shopping festival, sales topped 730,000 units. Taobao data shows that the horse face skirt was the most popular Hanfu item in 2023. Sales and search data signal a widespread and growing fascination with traditional Chinese clothing styles. The Jing Take The horse face skirt is a traditional Chinese skirt characterized by its distinct pleated design. It is occasionally referred to in a more generic sense as an apron. This type of skirt is a key component of Hanfu, the traditional dress of Han Chinese women, serving as a lower garment. It is celebrated as one of the most emblematic styles of ancient Chinese skirts, showcasing a rich cultural heritage through its unique appearance and historical significance. Numerous theories surround the origin of the horse-faced skirt's name. One suggests its division into three trapezoidal pieces, with the central one resembling a horse's face. Another theory suggests the skirt, with the middle door and side pleats, looks like an architectural wall structure called a “horse-faced wall”. Social media platforms like Weibo, Xiaohongshu, Douyin, and Bilibili are home to vibrant online communities dedicated to discussing Hanfu. Influencers and content creators play a significant role in promoting Hanfu and fostering a sense of community. To date, the hashtag for the horse face skirt on Douyin has attracted more than 17.6 billion views across related topics and short videos. Meanwhile, on Xiaohongshu, searches for the same term have resulted in over 880,000 posts. The resurgence of the horse face skirt has been propelled in part by celebrities and fashion influencers. Icons like Yang Mi, Ni Ni, and Yang Zi have been spotted embracing this trend, further amplifying its appeal among young consumers. Data from Qichacha reveals that close to 6,300 companies related to Hanfu operate in the country, with over 2,800 of these enterprises having been established in the past year alone. Hanfu's rising popularity offers brands a unique chance to tap into a passionate consumer base seeking cultural connection and unique aesthetics. However, navigating cultural sensitivities and ensuring responsible practices are crucial for success. In July 2022, Dior sparked controversy in China thanks to the design of a skirt design in its Fall 2022 Collection. Many Hanfu enthusiasts accused Dior of copying the design of the traditional Chinese horse face skirt without acknowledging its inspiration or providing any cultural context. Critics pointed out the striking resemblance between the Dior skirt and the horse face skirt, highlighting elements like the high front and back slits, the folded sides, and the waistband design. Dior’s description of the skirt as a “hallmark Dior silhouette” further fueled the controversy, as it failed to acknowledge its potential connection to Chinese clothing traditions. Chinese netizens, particularly Hanfu supporters, took to social media platforms like Weibo to express their disapproval. Some even organized protests outside Dior stores in Paris and China. The horse face skirt’s ascendancy is a testament to the growing appetite for Hanfu-inspired designs as well as a deeper cultural revival for classical Chinese aesthetics. The Jing Take reports on a piece of the leading news and presents our editorial team’s analysis of the key implications for the luxury industry. In the recurring column, we analyze everything from product drops and mergers to heated debate sprouting on Chinese social media.

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What are ‘horse face skirts’ and why are they going viral?