Quiet luxury triumphs: Stefano Ricci, Brunello Cucinelli, Tod's lead menswear revival at Pitti Uomo

A few years ago, the Covid-19 pandemic hit Pitti Uomo hard. Unlike fashion weeks, where brands can present their collection via livestreaming and reach press and buyers worldwide, the biannual Pitti Uomo fair is a fully in-person experience. The absence of Chinese buyers and attendees was especially noticeable. All the fashion trade fair’s stands were packed with people. Missing for the past few iterations, Chinese participants returned this year, including editors from Elle Men, Ming Pao Daily’s editors, and many Chinese buyer groups. During the edition January 9-12, over 832 designers and founders presented their latest collections in their individual stands spread across the giant fair at Fortezza del Basso in the heart of Florence. Forty-six percent of labels attending were foreign. Stefano Ricci’s CEO, Niccolò Ricci, tells Jing Daily: “Pitti Uomo is a great and intensive four-day occasion to meet press, buyers, and friends of the house all at once.” An homage to quiet luxury For menswear, especially those in the “quiet luxury” category, 2023 was a year to cheer. Over the course of 2023, Stefano Ricci more than doubled its sales in China, recording a 113 percent YoY surge. Meanwhile, global sales increased 46 percent. In light of this trend, the Italian label presented a low-key selection of knitwear made with extra soft baby cashmere “Alpha Yarn.” The luxurious collection is defined by its fabric and craftsmanship. The logo is barely noticeable. Nonetheless, Stefano Ricci hasn’t given up on its iconic eagle head. “Despite the rise of ‘quiet luxury,’ we still notice a robust demand for our iconic pieces where the logo is more visible. These are two completely different targets. We are keeping both styles in our collections,” says Niccolò Ricci. The 50-year-old house also revealed plans to open four to five stores in China this year. Another label benefitting from the “old money” aesthetic, and quiet luxury style, was the king of cashmere Brunello Cucinelli. Brunello Cucinelli officially entered the $1 billion club last year. Its revenue reached $1.24 billion (8.89 billion RMB), up 26 percent YoY. Accounting for more than a quarter of total sales, Asia propelled revenue. For the Fall/Winter 2024 collection, Brunello Cucinelli plays with more intense colors, such as lobster orange, iris purple, and coral red, and shifts to more daily casual looks to address its increasingly younger clientele. From knitwear and evening wear to an extensive accessories selection, Brunello Cucinelli added mountain capsules and tennis outfits to complement the collection in light of the growing popularity of sports in recent years. The brand’s stand at Pitti Uomo, positioned in one of the fair’s best spots and covering more than 100 square meters, was packed with members of the press and buyers. Bustling fashion offerings beyond Pitti The vivacity of the Italian trade show doesn’t end at Fortezza del Basso; outside the fair in Florence, major players rented bigger spaces to showcase their latest offerings and innovations. Although strongly bound with the Florentine leather goods industry, this is the first time Tod’s has launched a product at Pitti Uomo. At Stazione Leopolda, the label presented its collaboration with luxury car maker Automobili Lamborghini, alongside its iconic Tod’s Gommino models and sneakers in design to match the flashing colors of the race car Revuelto. When asked whether the collection will also be presented in China, the CEO of Tod’s Group, Diego Della Valle, told Jing Daily, “We strongly believe that Chinese consumers will love this marriage between two Italian [brands of] excellence in design and craftsmanship, so we believe we will soon launch the collection there.” Next to Tod’s, Guess Jeans rented the city’s theater, Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, to celebrate its 40th anniversary and present its latest sustainability breakthrough technology. Renowned for its stone-washed jeans, the American label has employed a new technology that drastically reduces water and chemical usage and eliminates the use of stones to get the washed effect. In a 15 to 20 minute walk-in experience, the label fully immerses visitors in its story and laboratory, with experts explaining the process step by step. Florentine house Salvatore Ferragamo took over the theater’s basement to showcase its 100-year footwear history and the legendary heels made for Hollywood stars by its founder. An impressive pair of 18-carat gold heels was on show, creating a queue of visitors keen to take a picture with the shoes. The exhibition is open to the public and will run until November this year. Another brand riding on Pitti Uomo’s popularity is Adidas. The sports company partnered with luxury multibrand retailer LuisaViaRoma to soft launch its SL 72 sneaker line. As the name suggests, the super light sneakers were first designed in 1972. Created for running, the shoes are soft, super light, and fashionable. The choice of launching in selected boutiques rather than in its 2,000 stores speaks to the brand’s ambition to elevate the sneaker’s status. The shoes were released in selected stores and only a few influencers were brought on board to generate interest. Alongside fashion weeks, Pitti Uomo is an important fashion gathering of brands, the media, and buyers, especially now as the vitality of the fair fully comes back. The four-day event recorded 13,000 buyers and 20,000 visitors in total.

Stefano Ricci, Brunello Cucinelli lead menswear revival at Pitti Uomo

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Stefano Ricci, Brunello Cucinelli lead menswear revival at Pitti Uomo

How Bottega Veneta weaved China’s forever it bag