Pitti Uomo 107: Is quiet luxury here to stay?

The 107th edition of Pitti Uomo unfolded in Florence from January 14 to 17, presenting a magnetic blend of tradition and innovation that set the tone for Fall 2025. This season, the spotlight shone on MM6 Maison Margiela and Setchu, two powerhouses offering radically distinct interpretations of contemporary menswear. In addition to these headliners, the event celebrated emerging trends, avant-garde digital fashion, and the continued rise of quiet luxury. The return of MM6 Maison Margiela MM6 Maison Margiela’s return to Pitti Uomo evoked the gritty glamour of urban nightlife. Staged at the Liberty-style Tepidarium Giacomo Roster, the show explored the dramatic spectrum of black, with burgundy accents and shimmering Lurex textures punctuating the collection. From oversized sunglasses to the unconventional styling of ties as scarves, MM6’s irreverence was on full display. “Florence has always been a city of inspiration for us,” says Renzo Rosso, founder of OTB Group, which owns MM6. Since introducing menswear in 2020, MM6 has grown steadily, with the category now accounting for a third of its sales. The label has cultivated a niche following with its avant-garde approach, rivaling brands like Acne Studios and Loewe. Distributed in 600 multibrand retailers and 23 standalone stores worldwide — including strongholds in China (9) and Japan (11) — MM6 has established itself as a dynamic force in contemporary fashion. This buzz around the brand coincides with shifting luxury market dynamics. According to Bain & Co. and Altagamma, the global luxury market contracted by 2% in 2024 compared to 2023, with younger consumers gravitating toward niche, experiential, and emotionally resonant luxury products. However, Rosso remains optimistic, telling Jing Daily, “Yesterday morning, I had a meeting with China and South Korea. The sales of the first week of 2025 have registered positive growth.” Setchu’s Pitti Uomo debut Making its Pitti Uomo debut, Setchu unveiled a collection inspired by Japanese minimalism and Western tailoring. Designer Satoshi Kuwata drew on his Savile Row training to create transformable garments: safari jackets that morph into shorter styles, tailcoats that tuck into modern silhouettes, and shirts that extend into architectural panels. The collection’s ethos lies in multifunctionality, allowing consumers to reinterpret pieces based on their personal style. Kuwata’s innovative “updating” service further aligns with sustainability, empowering clients to modify purchased items for extended utility. Setchu’s debut follows Kuwata’s accolades, including winning the 2023 CNMI Fashion Trust Grant and the 2023 LVMH Prize, cementing his reputation as a rising star in menswear. “The future of fashion lies in adaptability,” Kuwata stated, underlining the brand’s alignment with younger consumers’ desires for flexible, sustainable designs. Quiet luxury takes center stage Across the fair, quiet luxury remained a dominant theme. Italian maisons Brunello Cucinelli and Stefano Ricci showcased collections that prioritized craftsmanship and understated elegance over overt branding. Brunello Cucinelli’s FW25 collection exemplified “balance and fusion,” pairing tailored suits with soft knitwear and relaxed outerwear. Rich hues such as amaranth, pumpkin, and sapphire added vibrancy, while innovative materials like garment-dyed fabrics and plush shearling brought a contemporary touch to classic silhouettes. Preliminary revenues for 2024 surpassed $1.3 billion, driven by robust growth in the U.S. and Asia — a clear indicator of the enduring appeal of quiet luxury. Meanwhile, Stefano Ricci continued its “Explorer” series, capturing stunning visuals in locations like Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca. The FW25 collection spotlighted vicuña, one of the rarest and most luxurious fibers in the world, used to craft suits and outerwear. Creative director Filippo Ricci notes that 70% of the brand’s designs are now logo-free, a strategic decision reflecting evolving consumer preferences for understated luxury. “People are looking for performance wear, like ski clothes or outerwear that keeps you dry but is also very light and formal,” he explains. In the third quarter of 2024, Stefano Ricci reported 11% YoY growth. “The footwear category has performed exceptionally well for us,” Ricci adds. Men’s footwear as key category The footwear segment made a significant impact, with Stuart Weitzman unveiling its menswear collection at Pitti Uomo. Renowned for its iconic 50/50 boots in womenswear, the brand translated this design philosophy into minimalist, logo-free men’s footwear. Alessio Nobili, the brand’s senior wholesale manager, says, “Our launch was inspired by demand from female customers seeking footwear for their male partners. The response has been overwhelming, with buyers appreciating the understated elegance and comfort of our designs.” At Pitti Uomo, Ferragamo dedicated a space within its boutique to showcase the craftsmanship behind its luxurious Tramezza collection. Artisans from the brand’s Naples factory brought their tools and demonstrated, step by step, the intricate process of handcrafting a pair of Tramezza shoes. The process typically takes four to six weeks, allowing for the shaping and multiple dyeing steps, with artisans spending an average of 15 hours on each pair. FabriX: Digital fashion’s phygital revolution Pitti Uomo 107 also ventured into the digital realm with FabriX, a Hong Kong-based platform that merges virtual runways with augmented reality. The debut of Kiosk 2.0.1 at the fair allowed visitors to try on digital garments from niche independent designer clothing, Chinese brands such as Pronounce and Xander Zhou, as well as other notable names like Bianca Saunders and Ponder.er. Founder Shin Wong reflected on the platform’s success: “Pitti Uomo’s business-oriented atmosphere has been invaluable. For the first time, buyers and department stores approached me directly about commercializing our AR try-on technology.” Pitti Uomo’s incorporation of digital fashion highlights a growing appetite for phygital experiences, particularly among younger consumers. This trend aligns with broader shifts in the luxury market, where the appetite for emotional and experiential products continues to grow. China presence at Pitti Meanwhile, the China Wave segment showcased the best of contemporary Chinese menswear, the result of a collaboration between Pitti Immagine Uomo and the China National Garment Association. The event also marked the debut of “I Just Don’t Want to Wake Up” — known as “lying flat” (躺平) in Chinese — a bold new knitwear capsule collection that pushes the boundaries of contemporary fashion. This collaboration between Chinese cashmere leader Consinee Group, renowned Italian journalist Angelo Flaccavento, and fashion designer Luca D'Alena combines the comfort of loungewear with the dynamic energy of urban streetwear. The future of fashion From the return of MM6 Maison Margiela and the debut of Setchu to the rise of quiet luxury and digital fashion, Pitti Uomo demonstrated how contemporary menswear is moving towards a more diverse, adaptable, and experiential future. Notably, burgundy emerged as the undisputed color of the season, a trend first popularized by Sabato De Sarno’s debut Gucci womenswear collection. At the event, this deep, rich hue transitioned seamlessly into menswear, dominating collections by MM6, Brunello Cucinelli, and Stefano Ricci. As designers prioritize sustainability, multifunctionality, and understated elegance, they are reshaping the future of luxury and style.

Pitti Uomo 107: Is quiet luxury here to stay?

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Published January 20, 2025

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Pitti Uomo 107: Is quiet luxury here to stay?