How ‘Britishcore’ cracked luxury in China

From the revival of “indie sleaze” to whispers of a Topshop (once the pinnacle of British style) comeback, Britain is having a moment in the fashion spotlight. So much so that the country has earned arguably the most coveted status of today – its own “core” on TikTok. “Britishcore” has made waves on the social app this year, under which users are celebrating the mundane aspects of quintessential British culture, from “Tesco runs” and ramshackle country pubs, to iconic British figures like Oasis and The Only Way Is Essex’s Gemma Collins. The cultural trope is extending into China, where the nation’s youth is embracing the British lifestyle, but through its own lens. Earlier this year, mainland Zoomers jumped on Britain’s “indie sleaze” trend, a style heavily inspired by mid-to-late noughties Britain. On apps like Xiaohongshu, creators introduced Chinese shoppers to the aesthetic via styling tips and in-depth explainers on its origins. As British culture continues to sweep the nation, how can brands join in? Selling culture British brands have realized they can sell their local heritage to China. For example, as part of its collaboration with Paddington Bear earlier this year, British lifestyle label Jo Malone London invested heavily in China marketing, recognizing the impact of the fictional character across the mainland (on Xiaohongshu, #paddington (帕丁顿熊) stands at 8.1 million reads). Promotional efforts included taking over Shanghai’s most popular metro line (Line 2), an influencer bus takeover, and an event on the Bund waterfront. “There are several ways in which we bring our tone of voice of Britishness to China. It’s about bringing a depth of the British lifestyle to the Chinese consumer,” Jo Dancey, Jo Malone London’s global general manager told Jing Daily in August. In a similar vein, Burberry brought a glimpse of British culture to Shanghai with its Norman’s pop-up in October last year. The humble greasy spoon (an inexpensive restaurant serving fried food) nestled in London’s Archway has become a cult favorite among the UK fashion set – by extending its influence to China, the brand offered Chinese fashion enthusiasts a taste of the cafe’s iconic charm. The pop-up became a social media magnet, attracting scores of style-savvy customers across China. To further boost visibility, the brand invited a number of KOLs to the location, including Shanghai-based founder of lifestyle store Chapter, Nick Wong (245,100 followers on Xiaohongshu). Multiple touch points “One of the key reasons for the resonance of British culture in China is the continued soft power of the UK in education, film and TV, fashion, and music,” says Jack Porteous, Commercial Director at Tong Global. “Over 150,000 Chinese students are studying in the UK at any one time, and many more at British schools and universities located in mainland China.” Porteous points to British shows, including Peppa Pig, Bridgerton and Heartstopper (which has amassed 70 million views on Xiaohongshu), as examples of media content that has “captivated audiences of all ages, reflecting how British cultural exports continue to inspire and engage Chinese audiences across generations.” While Britain’s cultural universe provides multiple touch points that brands can riff on, not all are guaranteed to strike a chord in China. Take the ‘Britishcore’ trend; while the term is buzzing in the West, it’s barely registering on China’s domestic platforms. Meanwhile, searches for “England-core” on Xiaohongshu brings up a slew of British fashion staples, including trench coats, loafers, and scarves – indicating that England has carved out its own fashion niche among Chinese consumers. Other British-adjacent trends such as “blokecore” – an internet aesthetic influenced by British football culture in the 1980s and 1990s – have also soared on China’s social channels in recent years. According to Xiaohongshu, posts relating to the topic “the trendy guide to wearing jerseys” increased by nearly 100% during the 2022 World Cup season, while the hashtags #Jersey trend guide (球衣潮流攻略) and #blokecore have amassed 12.6 million views and 6.8 million views, respectively. “British subcultures offer China’s Gen Z a style that’s not only aesthetically appealing, but culturally rich and symbolic of self-liberation, self-expression, and a counter-normative edge,” says Fong Fong Lee-Collins, Account Director at 11K Consulting, adding that the messy, carefree nature of British trends like ‘indie sleaze’ “feels like an exciting departure from the polished and highly curated style seen in many Chinese trends.” Lee-Collins notes that the familiarity of fictional British figures like Paddington also offers a lucrative entry point, as shown by Jo Malone London’s recent collab success. Harry Potter, for example, is returning to the big screen in China over the next few weeks, with theaters banking on a tidal wave of fans to help offset the country’s waning box office sales. Niche internet focus While popular IPs like Harry Potter may be low-hanging fruit, brands can also tap niche online phenomena to showcase their cultural prowess. Last year, TikTok user and Chinese tutor Dr Candise (@candiselin86) spotlighted a trend among Chinese influencers flocking to a specific spot in Hunan’s Changsha that was said to mimic London’s streets; a nod to the appeal of British aesthetics. Shanghai’s mini-England replica, coined “Thames Town,” is also a popular spot for capturing online content. On Xiaohongshu, the hashtag #ThamesTown (#泰晤士小镇) has garnered over 11.9 million views. This opportunity isn’t limited to British labels alone. Last year, Chinese menswear brand Lu Couture also went viral thanks to its store interior, which echoed the decor of the iconic Savile Row tailor shop from British film The Kingsman. Treading carefully It makes sense for British brands to tap their tradition as a unique selling point. But winning over Chinese consumers requires more than just serving up British culture. When adopting British-adjacent trends or emphasizing their British roots, brands should avoid coming across as contrived, says Lee-Collins. “[Brands] should go beyond surface-level symbols like red phone booths or Union Jacks, instead highlighting specific stories, historical elements, or craftsmanship unique to British culture, allowing the audience to connect with an authentic story rather than just an aesthetic,” Lee-Collins adds. Jo Malone London has recognized the power in its cultural nuances by introducing its Chinese fan base to quirks engrained in British culture. Dancey explains how the label uses British idioms in its marketing, paired with a “nice little translation to explain the meaning behind it and the British etiquette that it is linked with” for Chinese audiences. There’s also the historical implications of Britain's colonial legacy across China. When selling themselves to China, Porteous notes that British brands can avoid cultural missteps – by “focusing on relatively uncontroversial aspects of British culture such as aesthetics, creativity, storytelling, and heritage brands, companies can highlight popular elements of Britishness that resonate with Chinese consumers without much risk of faux pas,” he says. A well-rounded perspective can help brands avoid controversy. “It’s always important to consider activations that use nationality, including stereotypes, through your own lens, a China lens, and a global lens,” says Porteous. “Done well, this can boost your brand via ‘Brand Britain’ (traits that continue to define Britain in the minds of consumers). Done poorly, it risks offense.”

How ‘Britishcore’ cracked luxury in China

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Published October 29, 2024

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How ‘Britishcore’ cracked luxury in China