When it comes to the world of fashion, years have traditionally been measured by the seasons. Today, they’re more commonly defined by their most viral moments.
This was the case for 2022, which has been bookmarked in fashion as the year of the big runway comeback, Coperni’s explosive spray paint dress, and Miu Miu’s global takeover – all of which were documented on the internet.
Fast forward to 2023, and the past 12 months have once again delivered a series of memorable and viral-inducing moments, from the lauded return of Phoebe Philo and 1990s supermodels, to Pharrell Williams’ hotly anticipated debut at Louis Vuitton.
As we round off another year in fashion, Jing Daily looks back at what broke industry headlines in 2023 and got the style community raving.
Schaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry-led ‘taxidermy mayhem’
Kicking off the year of 2023 in true Schiaparelli style, creative director Daniel Roseberry broke the internet during Paris couture week with his faux taxidermy showstoppers. The trio of animal heads, one also affixed to budding fashion it-girl and FROW-er Kylie Jenner, caused uproar across the internet after critics slammed the designs as an offensive fashion faux pas and promoting trophy hunting. But in 2023, any publicity is good publicity, and Roseberry’s carnivorous gowns certainly made their mark.
Pharrell Williams’ debut at Louis Vuitton menswear
After being appointed as menswear creative director in February, fashion fanatics waited with bated breath to see how polymath Pharrell Williams would approach LV’s storied legacy, following the passing of Virgil Abloh. In June, that vision came to life on Paris’ Pont Neuf. The star-studded, pop culture spectacle saw Williams send troops of models down the gold-wrapped bridge, accompanied by performances from gospel choirs and Chinese pianist Lang Lang. According to Lefty’s ‘A Year In Data 2023’ report, the showcase ranked as the top menswear show of 2023, generating $49.2 million in Earned Media Value. “This historic moment marked a new era for not just fashion but for the whole creative sector, where culture is no longer just peripheral; it’s a core component to building a brand today and surviving tomorrow,” Lefty wrote.
Phoebe Philo makes a comeback
Style veterans ‘phinally’ received the news of Phoebe Philo’s long awaited return this year, after the designer exited Cèline in 2017. Originally teasing the launch of her eponymous label in 2021, Philo’s official Instagram popped up in early October, before its inaugural collection was dropped later that month. Philo’s comeback was a much-needed reminder of the influence female designers have on an industry where white, cis men rule the roost.
Barbiecore reigned supreme
While Barbiecore began gaining ground in 2022, following the announcement of actress Margot Robbie as the blockbuster film’s doll protagonist, the trend exploded this year in the run-up to the movie’s official release. From January to July, pink became the new norm, with fuschia-tones infiltrating every industry including food, travel, and beauty. Fashion collaborations also arrived aplenty, with the likes of Zara, Skims, and Crocs capitalizing on Barbie’s booming relevance and the rise of dopamine dressing. To date, the hashtag #barbiecore has amassed over 1.1 billion views on TikTok.
The 90s ‘supers’ comeback
In a post-pandemic era driven by nostalgia, fashion has looked back a lot over the past year, mostly towards its 1990s heyday. In conjunction with the resurgence of 1990s nostalgia and Y2K core, the industry also welcomed back a number of familiar faces, championing their staying power within one of the globe’s most notoriously ephemeral markets. Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, and Cindy Crawford reconvened to grace the cover of Vogue, a front page that would quickly go viral, alongside their Apple+ TV series The Super Models. Philo muse and naughties icon Daria Werbowy also ended her seven-year hiatus to star in Sabato De Sarno’s debut Gucci campaign.
Sunnei got the fashion community’s vote
As a fashion week newcomer, making your name known across the slew of runway collections each season is near impossible. But Italian label Sunnei defied all odds. For Spring/Summer 2024, the brand put its own spin on the “viral catwalk” trend, inviting attendees to vote on each garment using numbered paddles. Debate on whether everyone is a fashion critic is intensifying in line with today’s digital transformation; riding the zeitgeist, Sunnei brought a new vision to the conversation.
Sofia Richie Grainge crowned ‘Influencer of the Year’
A former underdog on the fashion scene, Sofia Richie Grainge rose to style stardom this year after her Chanel-clad, uber-chic wedding ceremony caused the TikTok girlies to fall at their knees in awe. What followed was a year bursting with Richie Grainge, including partnerships alongside David Yurman and frequent FROW appearances at Ralph Lauren and Prada, all cementing her title as Lefty’s “Influencer of the Year.” Lefty notes that 2023’s prevailing quiet luxury trend was a potential catalyst for the influencer’s popularization. “Her style resonates with the quiet luxury trend, spiking a surge in views of the #OldMoney hashtag on TikTok, now at 10.9 billion,” Lefty wrote.
Sarah Burton exits McQueen; fashion became more male-dominated
Friend and successor to Lee Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton announced her shock exit from the label in September, weeks prior to her final catwalk collection during Spring/Summer 2024 Paris Fashion Week. Burton’s departure arrived at a time when female designers were noticeable by their absence at the helm of major luxury brands. Burton’s farewell left a bigger void, sparking calls for more diversity and female representation in high fashion.