Forbidden fashion: Rick Owens’ China controversy unfolds

What happened American designer Rick Owens, his wife Michèle Lamy, and Fecal Matter cofounders Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran found themselves under scrutiny across China over the weekend after they were denied entry to Beijing’s Forbidden City for wearing “dark and strange” clothes. The incident, which took place on October 15, sparked debate across China’s social sphere after Fecal Matter published an Instagram story saying security told them to “remove our make-up and change into normal clothes and then we could get in,” which they refused to do. “What we take away from this experience is more determination to keep doing what we do to fight for more acceptance and tolerance for difference around the world. Provoking and pushing the boundaries to fight against those who try to box people in and remove the freedom of expression,” the pair continued. Despite the group’s unhappiness about the situation, local Chinese media outlets have been quick to side with the security team’s decision to prohibit Owens and his cohort from the location. The Beijing Daily newspaper defended the decision, arguing, “Respect is mutual. In this case, it’s clearly not that these people’s freedom to dress is not respected, but rather that they don’t respect Chinese history and culture.” Netizens on China’s social apps have also backed the decision. “I love matières fecales, and Rick and what they stand for, but I have to say I’m not sure this was the right move this time considering the culture,” user @cherie_chun wrote. “It’s not really that hard to understand. When you visit a country, you are expected to follow local customs, especially when visiting places of historical, cultural, or religious significance. If you can not respect that, just stay in your country,” @sonsoflibertygram penned. The Forbidden City has yet to officially comment on the issue. The Jing Take The Forbidden City is the imperial palace complex in the center of the Imperial City in Beijing, China. It was the residence of 24 Ming and Qing dynasty emperors and the center of political power in China for over 500 years. It is widely considered one of the most famous palaces in Chinese history and is the largest preserved royal palace complex still standing in the world. While there is no formal dress code for visiting the historic palace, the controversy surrounding Owens speaks to wider tensions surrounding what constitutes “respectful” attire at historical and cultural landmarks. A highly regarded figure among China’s fashion-savvy consumers, Owens has cultivated a following with his avant-garde aesthetic. The brand enjoys a robust online presence in the mainland, with #RickOwens clocking in at over 130 million views on Xiaohongshu and 75 million on Weibo. Owens was a pioneer in expanding into Asia, opening his flagship store in Tokyo in 2009. Today, the brand operates three official locations across the continent, with its largest store in Hong Kong. However, after hitting a nerve among Chinese shoppers and officials, the designer may have put his reputation in jeopardy. Last year, the Chinese government proposed a law change that would ban “offensive attire,” or clothing that “harms the spirit of the Chinese nation, or hurts the feelings of the Chinese nation.” A public backlash prompted the government to reduce the scope of the amendment in June this year to clothing that “glorifies aggression.” If enacted, those who violate the law risk being detained for up to 15 days and fined 5,000 RMB ($681). Owens isn’t the first designer to find themselves embroiled in an argument surrounding perceived respectful attire in China. In 2022, sportswear label Li-Ning came under fire after showcasing runway outfits that resembled Japanese soldiers’ uniforms during World War II (Japanese military uniforms have been outlawed in China). But the debate about Owens’ Forbidden City visit highlights a broader question: Where should the line between self-expression and cultural respect be drawn? Owens, Lamy and Fecal Matters have long pushed boundaries. But, is it fair to hold them to a different standard? One netizen likened the incident to a Chinese visitor attempting to enter a Western institution in swimwear: “We should respect each other’s traditions,” they said. “No one would allow someone to wear a bikini into a foreign church, right?” The Jing Take reports on a piece of the leading news and presents our editorial team’s analysis of the key implications for the luxury industry. In the recurring column, we analyze everything from product drops and mergers to heated debate sprouting on Chinese social media.

Forbidden fashion: Rick Owens’ China controversy unfolds

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Published October 21, 2024

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Forbidden fashion: Rick Owens’ China controversy unfolds