‘Dopamine dressing’ to ‘dirty fit’: 2023’s fashion trends in China

Last year was about putting the fun in functional. With health and movement on everyone’s mind during the pandemic, sportswear and technical gear became closet staples in China. Hiking boots and fleece jackets were no longer confined to camping (gorpcore); joggers and sneakers were paired with business-ready blazers (athflow); tennis skirts were worn on and off the court (courtcore); and Adidas soccer jerseys became un-ironically cool (blokecore). This year, color seems to be the running thread among fashion trends. With a shift toward subtler aesthetics, China witnessed variations of all-white, all-brown, and all-pink outfits. There was also a continued nostalgia for the past, as evidenced by the revival of 1990s grunge, Ivy League school, and vintage leather jacket styles. Below, we look back at some of the biggest social media fashion trends of 2023. For a more comprehensive look at China’s favorite fashion “cores,” click here. Barbiecore Life in plastic is proving fantastic. When Greta Gerwig’s Barbie movie finally hit Chinese theaters in July, the Barbiecore trend came into full force, inspiring local fans to dress head to toe in pink Y2K-esque outfits. On Xiaohongshu, “Barbie style” (芭比穿搭) has 59 million views and “Barbie Fashion Party” (芭比时尚派对) has 76 million views, with netizens praising Barbie’s message of self-love and unlimited possibilities. Brands were quick to jump on the bandwagon, releasing collaborations with the Barbie IP or promoting their own pink collections; among those commonly tagged were Blumarine, Moschino, Chanel, Versace, and Self Portrait. Of course, there are a few Kens, too, with the hashtag “Ken” garnering 6 million views on Xiaohongshu. Chinese men decked themselves out in denim and cowboy hats, largely from the Zara x Barbie collection, looking like they just rolled out of their Mojo Dojo Casa House. More here Dopamine dressing “Dopamine dressing” is all about evoking happiness through color and style. The aesthetic is bold and cheerful, featuring saturated outfits and fluorescent accessories. The look was popularized in China by influencer Baizhou Xiaoxiong (@白昼小熊) after she posted a “Rainbow Dressing” series in May, accumulating over 470 million views on Douyin. The hashtag dopamine dressing (多巴胺穿搭) on Xiaohongshu now has 473 million views. As described by one of the platform’s users, “The world, swept by the pandemic, seems to be immersed in dark clouds. Bright colors not only create a gorgeous atmosphere externally, but also bring about emotional healing internally.” More here Maillard style Nothing screams fall quite like the colors of a grilled steak, right? Named after the chemical reaction that gives browned food its distinctive flavor, the Maillard trend features different combinations of brown and beige apparel to resemble the changing colors of meat, with outfits ranging from “medium rare” (3分熟) to “medium well” (7分熟). On Xiaohongshu, the hashtags “Maillard” (美拉德) and “Maillard style” (美拉德穿搭) have 838 million and 106 million views, respectively, with many fashionistas calling the look harmonious, unified, and befitting the changing season. The neutral-colored trend also aligns with China’s shift toward subtler fashion aesthetics, with quiet luxury brands like Max Mara reigning supreme. More here Metallic girl As fall wardrobes become more neutral and muted, the “metallic girl” trend aims to spice things up by reintroducing glitter, sequins, and glossy eyeshadows — or anything that shines, really. The term “metallic girl” (五金女孩) was coined during a joint campaign between Douyin and Vogue China in October and has since grown to garner 26 million views on the lifestyle platform Xiaohongshu. Sequined jackets, chains, and gold and silver jewelry pieces are among the ways Chinese fashion lovers are bringing bling and attitude back to their outfits. More here New vintage The future of fashion in China is retro. The “new vintage” trend embraces new products designed to look old, appealing to those who don’t know how to thrift or simply don’t want to wear secondhand items. New Vintage clothing typically includes design elements from the 1970s, 80s, or 90s, such as classic tailoring or nostalgic prints, as well as distress and tearing. Vintage brown leather jackets, in particular, are a must-have. The “new vintage” hashtag has 148 million views on Xiaohongshu while “vintage leather jacket” (复古旧皮衣) has 15 million views. Dirty fit Reminiscent of the 1990s grunge style, “dirty fit” followers look like they just came off the street — in fact, some Chinese netizens call it the “no money style.” Clothes are made to look aged like new vintage but are in a far greater state of disarray and damage; think ripped jeans, worn-out sneakers, or designs resembling oil stains and hand-sprayed graffiti. Balenciaga’s Spring 2023 collection, Acne Studios’ Fall 2023 collection, and Diesel’s Fall 2023 collection offer inspiration for this look. The hashtag “dirtyfit” on Xiaohongshu has 24 million views, with some users complimenting its retro elements and lack of restrictions. Chinese-style old money While the traditional “old money” aesthetic conjures up images of preppy Ralph Lauren sweaters or Cruise looks fit for Lake Como, China has its own take on the trend. Like old money, there is an emphasis on simple and neat dressing, with no obvious logos. China’s twist, naturally, includes traditional design elements such as horse-faced skirts, Mandarin collars, and silk, along with gold, silver, or jade jewelry and hairpins, giving it a historical charm. On Xiaohongshu, the hashtag “Chinese-style old money” (中式老钱风) has 27 million views, with local brands like M Essential fitting the bill. Informal campus style (aka preppy style) With 144 million views on Xiaohongshu, “informal campus style” (非正式学院风) has got people looking like they’re about to ditch class and loiter in a park. This aesthetic is described as “youthful and rebellious,” comprising a casual mix of collegiate, sports, and leisure fashion styles. Think a button-up shirt and blazer paired with a Miu Miu miniskirt or a cardigan and shorts look from Aimé Leon Dore. The playful sports and streetwear elements, along with small details like unevenly rolled-up pants, differentiates informal campus style from the typical Ivy League aesthetic. Blackpink’s Rosé embodies this preppy trend. All white While some fashion lovers went full rainbow this summer, others chose to go all white. This look is cool, comfortable, and elegant, and falls under the “clean fit” umbrella. Inspired by runway ensembles by Jacquemus, Gabriela Hearst, Chanel, and Dior, the hashtag “all white,” promoted by Xiaohongshu’s fashion account in July, has 47 million views.

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2023’s fashion trends in China