Can Italian food rescue D&G in China?

After years of grappling with a tarnished reputation in China following a damaging 2018 scandal, Dolce & Gabbana is working on a new strategy to regain favor in the nation. The Milan-based luxury brand is betting on rising interest in Southern Italian culture and culinary experiences to help repair its relationship with Chinese consumers. But can food help the brand overcome its troubled past? Late last month, Dolce & Gabbana launched its first DG Caffè at Citic Square on Shanghai’s prestigious Nanjing West Road. Aiming to be more than a typical café, DG Caffè offers a sensory journey into Sicily’s vibrant culture. Its décor features Carretto Siciliano prints, a nod to the folk art of Sicily, with vivid colors and intricate designs that have roots in 18th-century traditions. The space embodies the brand’s attempt to immerse visitors in a Sicilian experience, both through the environment and the food. The café also serves as an extension of Dolce & Gabbana’s largest China boutique, offering a blend of fashion and dining. The menu features a range of Italian classics and crowd-pleasers like tiramisu served in Dolce & Gabbana-branded moka pots, partnerships with renowned producers like Sicilian winery Donnafugata and Pastificio Di Martino pasta give customers access to exclusive, limited-edition products. Reactions to the new cafe on Xiaohongshu have been mixed, with one commenter on a post by Shanghai-based influencer @LuciaLiu exclaiming, “OMG, a DG café in Shanghai? Gotta hit this joint up!” Another remarked, “Looks like you’re trying to lure me into drinking more coffee!” Commenters on a post by user @魔都那些事儿 were less complimentary, with many critical of what they saw as ignorance of Dolce & Gabbana’s previous controversies. As @墨蓝 noted, “The internet has no memory, and neither do the Chinese,” while @Phoenix很香 added, “This brand, which insulted China, still has people advertising for it.” Capturing the Southern Italian moment Dolce & Gabbana’s gastronomical pivot aligns with a growing fascination for Southern Italy among younger Chinese consumers. Regions like Capri and Positano have captured the imagination of Chinese travelers, driven in part by key opinion leaders (KOLs) and the social media platform Xiaohongshu. For example, the hashtag “Capri island” has accumulated close to 3 million views, spotlighting how Chinese tourists are embracing the region’s luxurious yet laid-back lifestyle. This allure has even inspired Shanghai restaurants like Shanghai’s OTF Sicilia to recreate the Southern Italian aesthetic. Lemon-tree-themed interiors and picturesque settings cater to the rising demand for immersive, Instagram-worthy dining experiences, which is where Dolce & Gabbana’s DG Caffè seeks to carve out a niche. Culinary exploration is becoming increasingly popular among Chinese millennials and Gen Z. According to Xiaohongshu’s mid-2024 report, cooking tutorials and dining experiences are surging in popularity. From home recipes to discovering hidden street food gems, young consumers are eager to engage with food on a deeper, more experiential level. For Dolce & Gabbana, this offers a unique opportunity to bridge the gap with a generation that places value on experiences, not just products. Amid this cultural shift, food is now a lifestyle statement. For many young Chinese, dining at a luxury branded-cafe like Shanghai’s Dior Cafe, Vivienne Westwood Café, or Tiffany Blue Box Cafe, or the new DG Caffè, can be an event and a social media moment. This is particularly true for younger consumers who may be able to treat themselves to a luxury brand-festooned meal, or dessert even if they cannot afford to buy anything else at the nearby boutique. In its effort for reacceptance in the China market, Dolce & Gabbana is not just stopping at cafés. The brand’s Casa Dolce&Gabbana, which opened this past June in Shanghai’s Zhangyuan area, offers a broader lifestyle experience, blending art, home design, and fashion. It also demonstrates the brand’s willingness to collaborate with local talent, as seen in initiatives like the “GenD” project, which supports emerging home design creatives, and the “Supported by Dolce & Gabbana” program, which helped launch Chinese-Canadian designer Susan Fang. Beyond damage control Despite Dolce & Gabbana’s redoubled efforts in China, challenges remain. The 2018 controversy, which saw the Italian maison embroiled in accusations of racism following offensive advertisements and leaked Instagram messages, left a deep scar. The backlash was swift, with boycotts across Chinese social media and many consumers publicly burning their Dolce & Gabbana goods. Even six years later, the brand faces skepticism, with some consumers questioning its sincerity. “No amount of support can change [Stefano Gabbana’s] perception of China,” wrote one Xiaohongshu user, reflecting a sentiment shared by many. To succeed, Dolce & Gabbana must prove that its recent efforts are not just damage control but part of a long-term, genuine strategy to rebuild trust with Chinese consumers. While food and lifestyle experiences can offer a unique way to connect, they cannot be the sole solution. In a market where social media amplifies both praise and criticism, Dolce & Gabbana’s every move will be scrutinized. If executed thoughtfully, their focus on Italian culinary experiences could not only help them reconnect with Chinese consumers, but also set a precedent for how global brands can rebuild relationships through cultural empathy and shared experiences. Italian cuisine, with its emphasis on family and tradition, has a potential resonance with Chinese values, particularly as young consumers shift toward holistic well-being and lifestyle experiences. So could Italian food be the key ingredient in Dolce & Gabbana’s recipe for redemption in China? Only time — and the palate of the Chinese consumer — will tell.

Can Italian food rescue D&G in China?

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Published October 08, 2024

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Can Italian food rescue D&G in China?