Is CalvinLuo’s closure a warning sign for Chinese designer brands?

In a surprising move, Calvin Luo, founder of the eponymous Chinese designer brand, just announced the gradual suspension of all business operations beginning in the first quarter of 2025. Established in 2014, the brand quickly rose to prominence with its innovative designs, becoming a significant name in the Chinese fashion industry. In an official announcement, Luo reflected on his brand’s journey, noting that “CalvinLuo has become a leading designer brand in terms of both commercial volume and popularity. However, continuing as is would likely mean staying in this intense industry cycle indefinitely, which is not the life I envision for myself.” Many were surprised at what seemed like an abrupt announcement. The CalvinLuo brand has achieved significant milestones over the past decade, showcasing collections at New York and Paris fashion weeks and having collaborated with over 300 boutique stores throughout China. Despite this success, Luo highlighted the relentless pace and increasing pressures of running the brand as key reasons for his decision. “Starting as a solo venture, we have expanded to over a hundred employees,” Luo wrote, admitting that the pressure to increase his product range and manage a larger team had been “immense.” Luo’s decision underscores broader challenges faced by independent Chinese designer brands in navigating the fast-paced commercial environment and increasingly intense competition. As Luo told Jing Daily in 2022, “I have to say the rivalries between homegrown designer brands have been heating up in recent years. It’s getting harder for emerging brands to stand out in the market.” Luo’s statement also mentioned the Myers-Briggs Type Indicator, an American personality test that has been trending among youth across China in recent months, as younger generations seek answers and fulfillment through self-improvement and holistic wellness. While CalvinLuo will cease operations, Luo remains optimistic about the future of Chinese designer brands, acknowledging their unique position in the global fashion landscape. “Whether this marks a pause or an end, I am grateful for the freedom to make this choice at this stage of my life,” Luo says. “I see this as a success and a blessing.”

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Is CalvinLuo’s closure a warning sign for Chinese designer brands?