Burton at Givenchy: Can she win over China?

Sarah Burton is the new creative director of Givenchy. The news, announced earlier today, sees Burton assume her role at the French fashion house effective immediately. She will be responsible for overseeing the maison’s womenswear and menswear collections. Her debut for Givenchy will be for the house’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, which will debut in March next year at Paris Fashion Week. “I am so excited to be able to write the next chapter in the story of this iconic house and to bring to Givenchy my own vision, sensibility and beliefs,” the designer said in a statement. Storied career The news arrives almost exactly one year after Burton announced her departure from Alexander McQueen, leaving a role that was later filled by former JW Anderson alumni, Seán McGrirr. Burton’s 26-year tenure at the brand – 13 of those at the helm – reportedly helped grow the Kering-owned brand’s sales to around 830 million euros ($917 million) as of 2022. Her Spring/Summer 2024 collection, which was showcased at Paris Fashion Week on September 30 2023, was her last. Sidney Toledano, chairman of the Givenchy board, said in a statement: “Her unique vision and approach to fashion will be invaluable to this iconic maison, known for its audacity and haute couture. I am convinced that her creative leadership will contribute to the future success and international standing of the maison.” China’s tapped-in enthusiasts are already feeling optimistic about Burton’s new position. “It seems that Sara Burton’s arrival at Givenchy is a long-awaited move for many. Returning to high fashion is the right path for Givenchy,” penned user @Blucoke on Xiaohongshu. The role of creative director at Givenchy has sat empty since December of last year, when it was announced that former creative director Matthew Williams would step down from the job on January 1 after just three years at the brand. Williams later shifted his focus back to his brand, 1017 Alyx 9SM. For Burton, the designer’s move to Givenchy is somewhat bittersweet, given her late advisor and friend Alexander McQueen’s time at the label; McQueen held the position of creative director at Givenchy from 1996 to 2001, where he replaced John Galliano. His time as head designer at the label was controversial, often drawing criticism for his nonconformist works. Givenchy’s shake-up at the top is the latest in a long line of creative director reshuffles over the past two years. Just last week it was announced that Haider Ackermann, former creative director of LVMH’s Berluti, will assume the role of creative director at Tom Ford, two months after predecessor Peter Hawkings exited the role. Challenges await Like competitors, Givenchy has been amping up its presence across China over recent months. In March, the brand appointed actress Li Bingbing as brand ambassador, the first China brand envoy to be chosen after Williams’ departure. While maisons like Loewe, Miu Miu, and Gucci have stormed ahead by catering to China’s shoppers, Givenchy has struggled to win back the trust of consumers after selling clothes that labeled Hong Kong and Taiwan as separate countries in 2019. The brand swiftly apologized. However, sales across China still look to be slow; earlier this year, it was reported that the brand was slashing prices, some by more than half, across domestic e-commerce platforms. Can Burton’s appointment help the brand reclaim its stake in China?

Burton at Givenchy: Can she win over China?

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Published September 09, 2024

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Burton at Givenchy: Can she win over China?