A guide to Chinese designers-to-know at London Fashion Week 2023

London Fashion Week (LFW) is a hotbed of emerging fashion design talent, making it an appropriate platform for independent Chinese designers. That’s proven in the schedule of upcoming Spring 2024 season of shows, running from Friday 15 to Tuesday 19 September 2023.

“Chinese labels have consistently won British awards (Feng Chen Wang, Chet Lo, Yuhan Wang, and ASAI),” British Fashion Council CEO Caroline Rush told Jing Daily in 2022. “While Paris, Milan, and New York dominate through luxury powerhouses, London is a hotbed for young and international talent, especially for Chinese ones.” 

LFW has enabled creators like Feng Chen Wang to evolve – though she will show in Paris this season – while cultivating progressive, avant-garde labels such as Untitlab, J E Cai, and KWK by Kway Kwok. 

A plethora of Chinese design talent can be found on LFW’s Fall 2024 schedule, some based in London, others jetting in for the occasion. Coinciding with London Fashion week is the Rebel: 30 Years of Newgen exhibition, the British Fashion Council’s program that supports emerging independent designers. Recipients of 2023/2024’s BFC Newgen program include Chet Lo and Yuhan Wang, both representing the mainland. 

Below, Jing Daily provides a quickfire low-down on which Chinese talents to keep an eye on at LFW.

Susan fang

susan fang (2)

Photo: Susan Fang

Founded: 2017

Origin: Shanghai

Aesthetic: From flouncy blouses to ruffled layered dresses, it’s summer all year round with Susan Fang’s fantasy fairytale womenswear.

KWK By Kay Kwok

KWK by Kay Kwok

Photo: KWK By Kay Kwok

Founded: 2013

Origin: Hong Kong

Aesthetic: Ethereal, avant-garde wearable art that enables dystopian alien-wear to straddle Gen Z streetwear.

Yuhan Wang

Founded: 2018

Origin: Weihai, Shandong province

Aesthetic: Yuhan Wang’s sultry cuts, frills, and florals create an all-at-once contemporary and nostalgic presentation of femininity.

Chet Lo

chet lo

Photo: Chet Lo

Founded: 2020

Origin: New York City/Shanghai-Hong Kong heritage

Aesthetic: Known for his cult pieces covered in 3D spikes, Chet Lo’s oeuvre is futuristic meets internet.

Simone Rocha

Founded: 2010

Origin: Ireland/ Hong Kong

Aesthetic: Known for her statement tulle, ribboned bows, and it-girl fanclub, Simone Rocha is one of the headline acts on LFW’s schedule.



Photo: Markknull

Founded: 2017

Origin: Beijing

Aesthetic: Elegantly moody, stylishly avant-garde collections feature denim, leather, and unusual streetwear silhouettes. 



Founded: 2017

Origin: Shanghai

Aesthetic: From luxe athleisure to relaxed tailoring, youthful energy runs through the functional yet playful designs of 8On8.

Huishan Zhang

huishan zhang

Photo: Huishan Zhang

Founded: 2011

Origin: Qingdao

Aesthetic: Sophisticated couture meets elaborate party dressing with Huishan Zhang’s refined gowns and evening-wear.



Disruptive Shanghai-based footwear brand Untitlab is one of the newcomers to the LFW schedule, debuting last season. Photo: Untitlab

Founded: 2019

Origin: Shanghai

Aesthetic: Translating BDSM (bondage, domination, sado-masochism) into classic footwear silhouettes like derbies and loafers, Untitlab represents Shanghai’s booming queer culture.



Photo: J.E.Cai

Founded: 2018

Origin: Weihai, Shandong province

Aesthetic: Relaxing color palettes of earthy tones decorate J E Cai’s structured contemporary looks that have multiple layers, both conceptually and physically.


Founded: 2018

Origin: Guangzhou

Aesthetic: Think drama. Elaborate gowns and experimental textures produce a feel that’s both historic and modern.

Victor Wong

Victor Wong 2023 lookbook. Photo: Victor Wong

Photo: Victor Wong

Founded: 2015

Origin: Hunan Province

Aesthetic: Luxury sunglasses are given an artistic edge, whether that’s dangling gems, unique shapes or added embellishments.


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