London Fashion Week (LFW) is a hotbed of emerging fashion design talent, making it an appropriate platform for independent Chinese designers. That’s proven in the schedule of upcoming Spring 2024 season of shows, running from Friday 15 to Tuesday 19 September 2023.
“Chinese labels have consistently won British awards (Feng Chen Wang, Chet Lo, Yuhan Wang, and ASAI),” British Fashion Council CEO Caroline Rush told Jing Daily in 2022. “While Paris, Milan, and New York dominate through luxury powerhouses, London is a hotbed for young and international talent, especially for Chinese ones.”
LFW has enabled creators like Feng Chen Wang to evolve – though she will show in Paris this season – while cultivating progressive, avant-garde labels such as Untitlab, J E Cai, and KWK by Kway Kwok.
A plethora of Chinese design talent can be found on LFW’s Fall 2024 schedule, some based in London, others jetting in for the occasion. Coinciding with London Fashion week is the Rebel: 30 Years of Newgen exhibition, the British Fashion Council’s program that supports emerging independent designers. Recipients of 2023/2024’s BFC Newgen program include Chet Lo and Yuhan Wang, both representing the mainland.
Below, Jing Daily provides a quickfire low-down on which Chinese talents to keep an eye on at LFW.
Susan fang
Photo: Susan Fang
Founded: 2017
Origin: Shanghai
Aesthetic: From flouncy blouses to ruffled layered dresses, it’s summer all year round with Susan Fang’s fantasy fairytale womenswear.
KWK By Kay Kwok
Photo: KWK By Kay Kwok
Founded: 2013
Origin: Hong Kong
Aesthetic: Ethereal, avant-garde wearable art that enables dystopian alien-wear to straddle Gen Z streetwear.
Yuhan Wang
Founded: 2018
Origin: Weihai, Shandong province
Aesthetic: Yuhan Wang’s sultry cuts, frills, and florals create an all-at-once contemporary and nostalgic presentation of femininity.
Chet Lo
Photo: Chet Lo
Founded: 2020
Origin: New York City/Shanghai-Hong Kong heritage
Aesthetic: Known for his cult pieces covered in 3D spikes, Chet Lo’s oeuvre is futuristic meets internet.
Simone Rocha
Founded: 2010
Origin: Ireland/ Hong Kong
Aesthetic: Known for her statement tulle, ribboned bows, and it-girl fanclub, Simone Rocha is one of the headline acts on LFW’s schedule.
Markknull
Photo: Markknull
Founded: 2017
Origin: Beijing
Aesthetic: Elegantly moody, stylishly avant-garde collections feature denim, leather, and unusual streetwear silhouettes.
8On8
Founded: 2017
Origin: Shanghai
Aesthetic: From luxe athleisure to relaxed tailoring, youthful energy runs through the functional yet playful designs of 8On8.
Huishan Zhang
Photo: Huishan Zhang
Founded: 2011
Origin: Qingdao
Aesthetic: Sophisticated couture meets elaborate party dressing with Huishan Zhang’s refined gowns and evening-wear.
Untitlab
Disruptive Shanghai-based footwear brand Untitlab is one of the newcomers to the LFW schedule, debuting last season. Photo: Untitlab
Founded: 2019
Origin: Shanghai
Aesthetic: Translating BDSM (bondage, domination, sado-masochism) into classic footwear silhouettes like derbies and loafers, Untitlab represents Shanghai’s booming queer culture.
J.E.Cai
Photo: J.E.Cai
Founded: 2018
Origin: Weihai, Shandong province
Aesthetic: Relaxing color palettes of earthy tones decorate J E Cai’s structured contemporary looks that have multiple layers, both conceptually and physically.
Mithridate
Founded: 2018
Origin: Guangzhou
Aesthetic: Think drama. Elaborate gowns and experimental textures produce a feel that’s both historic and modern.
Victor Wong
Photo: Victor Wong
Founded: 2015
Origin: Hunan Province
Aesthetic: Luxury sunglasses are given an artistic edge, whether that’s dangling gems, unique shapes or added embellishments.
